Category Archives: Podcast
This week I begin with EDC Pocket Knives, Rabbit Starvation the Truth, the Blizzard Survival 20% Discount offer, Logical Prep Rotation, How to Make Char Cloth, the Ribzwear 30% Discount offer, Selecting where to camp, Types of Campfires, Shelters, the Wilderness 121 10% Discount offer, Survival Eating, Survival Food guide, Cable ties the unsung Hero’s , The Midimax 10% Discount offer, Basic Survival Skills That we Must Have, the Survival Staff, the Survival Spear, the Buggrub 10% Discount offer, Survival Napping, Basic Wilderness Survival Skills, the Field Leisure 10% Discount offer, Owl Eyes: A Core Awareness Skill , Survival Kit Preparation, Your survival Kit, the Hunters-Knives 10% Discount offer.
EDC Pocket Knives
Now before I start repeat after me “an everyday carry pocket knife is a tool, not a weapon.”
In fact, a knife (or cutting blade) is the first ever tool made by humans, evidenced by stone versions that are over 2.5 million years old.
We had a need back then. and we still do today. However, things have changed a bit since that time. Today’s society immediately connects the idea of a knife with a threatening weapon rather than a tool.
I have carried a pocket knife for over 50 years and never once thought of using it as an offensive weapon, it was, is and will always be a tool.
To me an EDC pocket knife should be used like a key, a pen, or a mobile phone.
Well, not literally. You’re not going to make a long-distance call on your Swiss Army Knife are you?
The purpose of my EDC knife is to effectively perform everyday tasks in which a sharp blade is necessary; opening packages or envelopes, cutting strings or tags, and other small chores.
There are endless possibilities and they will become apparent once you have convenient access to one. If your job or lifestyle requires you to need a sharp blade more than 10 times a day, you should upgrade to a work knife or multitool, not an EDC pocket knife.
For an UK Legal EDC pocket knife, you are only allowed up to a 3″ cutting edge and non-locking blade. Sometimes a bit shorter. Any longer and you’re in a different category of knife, and breaking UK knife law, any shorter and the knife is more or less useless.
Let’s focus on small jobs and tasks – not sawing down a tree.
Yes, carrying your EDC knife in a pouch on your belt is legal but it can also be kept in a pocket but still readily available.
You don’t need to wear it around your neck, advertising it to everyone. If you need a belt pouch for your work knife and job, more power to you.
However in an “office type scenario” belt-holstered pouches don’t mix.
So you could consider pocket clips as well as in-pocket carry options. Depending on the size/colour/finish of the pocket clip, your knife carry still may be pretty visible, but not necessarily sticking out like a sore thumb.
Some are more discreet than others, while others leave a considerable amount of the knife visible. With a pocket clip, you can quickly and easily access the knife to perform a small task.
In-pocket carry is great for stealthily carrying in a public setting, except you may have to dig around in your pockets for it.
The best way to resolve that issue is to carry less in your pockets. Switching between the two carry methods is a great balance, depending on the setting. Find what works best for you.
The majority of the knife world is pretty much in general consensus that a non-serrated blade is best for everyday carry.
Some may disagree, as their everyday tasks may include cutting rope and such. As I said before, if you’re using a knife in these situations you should upgrade to a work knife with a serrated edge, not an EDC pocket knife.
A simple sharp blade should be all you need for an EDC pocket knife, allowing you to make clean precise cuts.
You’re not Crocodile Dundee, folding knives are much more compact and easier to carry on your person.
It is the Criminal Justice Act 1988 that most significantly affects the carrying of knives in the UK.
Simply put it is an offence under section 139 of the Act to carry an article with a blade or sharp point in a public place.
A folding pocket knife is not included, so long as the cutting edge is under three inches.
In practical terms it is best to take ‘cutting edge’ as meaning the whole blade, sharp or not.
Now that is all well and good. BUT, I am not happy with a folding knife that does not lock.
I think they are very dangerous and can easily close on the fingers of the user causing nasty injuries and the very least.
In my opinion we should be legally allowed to carry a lock-knife as I saw the law is there to punish the bad guys, not to criminalise the rest of us.
My fist, my car, in fact anything I use to cause injury to another will be classed as a weapon, and someone stabbed by a pocket knife does not say that’s ok mate its a non-lock knife as the result is of course the same.
Rabbit Starvation the Truth
Is ‘Rabbit Starvation’ a survival problem?
The story says that if you eat only rabbits, as in a survival diet, you’ll die of malnutrition. So why bother with raising rabbits?
The theoretical science behind this is actually correct. If you eat a diet of extremely lean meat with little else, you will eventually die of malnutrition and starvation. Your body converts protein to glucose, and it can only convert about 1000 calories worth.
It would I think be very hard to live on that.
But the body processes fat quite well, and can and does work very well on it.. If you add a bit of fat into that diet, especially if you have some vegetables or leafy greens to supplement with, you’ll be just fine.
And anyway domestically raised rabbits aren’t so lean that there’s not plenty of fat on the body. Add to that the consumption of the organs and a rabbit is a rather healthy source of nutrition.
I think the point really is just don’t go eating rabbits that are starving themselves, and you’ll be just fine.
Especially if you’ve got a small amount of greens to add in a few more nutrients.
I think the real point is if you’re eating rabbits you raised yourself, or wild rabbits that aren’t starving themselves, you’ve got NOTHING to worry about from the ‘Rabbit Starvation’ problem.
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Logical Prep Rotation
Once your water preps are in place it is time to sort out your food preps. When I say food storage, most people picture 50 lb bags of rice and buckets of wheat stored in the corner of the garage, and boxes of freeze dried food on top.
Please don’t do that. It’s not a good idea.
Don’t get me wrong. Wheat, rice, and other bulk stored items have a place in your survival preps.
But far too many people just throw it in the garage and that is that. Then the zombies show up and you’re stuck figuring out what on earth to do to make your hard wheat edible.
Unfortunately this is a path full of problems and a path that far too many people follow.. Wheat and other grains are undeniably critical to proper nutrition.
But wheat is hard to digest if your system isn’t used to it. If you aren’t used to eating wheat in more natural forms you’ll get sick, and you can easily develop gluten allergies.
Not a good thing. It’s actually frightfully likely that you’d die as a result of that. More on that later! The flour and whatnot that you get at the shop isn’t a very good substitute, and 90% of the bread you buy doesn’t help either. You have to use the real stuff.
This means that unless you have whole wheat as a key part of your diet already, you shouldn’t depend on it. It has a place, OK, but not to depend on.
Rule One! Store what you eat!
Write down what the staples are for your family. What are those recipes that are the ‘old standby’ for you?
What do you cook when you don’t have much time? If you’re like most families, you have a relatively low number of meals that you have on a regular basis. Focus on those first.
The goal here is to have the ingredients for these meals in storage.
So plan out a sample month worth of meals, repeating the things you have regularly. Make it look like an average month in your home as just as it would look like in ‘normal times.’
Then figure out what ingredients you need for that month. And there’s your monthly baseline. If you want six months of food storage, multiply it by six.
OK so I don’t need to tell you this, but for the common sense impaired out there, be sure to be logical with what you buy … if something you need has a three month shelf life, you don’t want to keep six months worth of it around.
Rule two! Eat what you store!
Now you have a couple months or so of your families food needs stored, a couple of interesting things happen. First, you’ve got a supply of food in the basement, so if you run out in the kitchen, you just go down to the basement (or wherever) and go shopping there instead of the supermarket.
Then, when things go on sale, replenish your basement food storage room. It’s cheaper, easier, and vastly more convenient!
Be sure to keep track of what you have in your storage room. Use a spreadsheet, label boxes, etc.
Practice FIFO (First In First Out) for proper rotation. Be sure to keep track of shelf lives of different foods.
The last thing you want is to get food poisoning.
The beauty of these two rules is pretty simple. You won’t have a drastic dietary change if something happens and you have to dip into your preps, as you’ve already been eating from them anyway.
Food storage is no longer some foreign concept that Doomsday Preppers and Camouflaged Survivalist do, but is just a method of getting a deeper pantry to be prepared and be more economically smart. Camouflage fatigues are optional.
How to Make Char Cloth
Fire making is a basic survival skill that must be learnt then practiced regularly or you could find yourself stuck in the wilderness without a way to boil your water or cook your food.
In order to make a fire, it’s more than just making a spark from a magnesium fire steel, fire piston, flint and steel, or a flame from a lighter. You need that ignition source to easily catch on to something that’ll burn long enough for the kindling to catch, which is supposed to burn long enough for your fuel wood to burn. That something is called Tinder.
The components of a good tinder are:
1. you have it with you or can find it when you need it
2. it catches fire easily in whatever weather or environment you’re in
3. it burns long enough to catch your kindling on fire
I have to say that having one of Bushcraft tools fire pistons I recommend Char Cloth. Technically, char cloth is an addition to your tinder stock.
So what is char cloth I hear you ask?
Char cloth is an organic material (like cotton) that has been heated enough that all (most) of the gasses inside have left but has been protected from burning itself up.
When something burns, it’s actually a chemical reaction with oxygen or a similar gas. When something like wood or cotton burns, chemicals like carbon monoxide, hydrogen and carbon dioxide are released into the air.
If you heat up something like cotton to a certain point and don’t let oxygen into the area for it to burn, the gasses will be released but the material itself won’t combust. That’s essentially all you need to do to make char cloth in theory, but let’s look at how you make it.
How do you make charred cloth?
The simplest prepper method of making char cloth is to take something like pieces of cotton from a t-shirt or old jeans and put it into a small tin, like an altoids tin or an air pellet tin. You can also use a tuna tin, coffee tin etc. as long as you can seal it fairly well after you put the material in it and it won’t burn itself up.
I wanted to make some char cloth just using stuff I had lying around the house so instead of an altoids tin I used an old pellet tin I had lying around.
You need the gasses to escape from the inside after they’re released from the cotton, so you need to poke a small hole in the tin with something like a nail. You don’t want it too big though, or oxygen will get in and your fabric will catch fire.
I got my Gillie Kettle out and lit it and put the old pellet tin on top then I cut a strip denim from some old jeans about as wide as the tin is long, rolled it up and put it into the tin. The smoke was coming out of the hole in the top of the tin, and if I was to put a flame to it, that smoke would catch fire.
This is essentially a mini-gasifier. That gas is flammable enough to be used in a generator or carb for an engine.
Then, you just cook the tin in the fire for a while until you don’t see any more smoke coming out, and that’s it. Depending on how much stuff you have, how big your tin is and how hot your fire is, it should take anywhere from 15-45 minutes.
Obviously, the proof is in the pudding so I took out my magnesium fire starter that I keep in my pocket as a part of my EDC kit, and it lit after one spark.
That’s really all there is to it. You should experiment with different types of fabrics and different temperatures and times to heat it up but it’s not really all that hard. You don’t even need to use cloth. Almost any organic material should work, such as wood or plant fibres. You just need to get all the gasses out without burning it.
Char cloth vs other tinder?
Char cloth catches so easily that just one spark will usually catch, so not only can you place it right under your tinder bundle, things like a breeze or damp air shouldn’t be a problem. It will burn usually for a few minutes too, giving it enough time to catch. Because it doesn’t give off a flame though, char cloth isn’t really going to be able to catch kindling.
Other tinder like dry leaves, grass, cat tail fluff, etc. burns pretty well but isn’t always easy to catch from a spark. Especially if it’s damp out.
Putting them together though, makes a powerful combination.
How to use char cloth to start a fire.
Char cloth catches easily but it won’t burn hot enough to catch twigs on fire unless they’re REALLY tiny.
You also probably won’t have a lot of char cloth in your kit. It will, however, burn enough to catch other tinder on fire. By making a tinder bundle out of dry material that burns quickly and then putting the char cloth in side it, you make an easy-to-light pile of stuff known as a nest that will burn hot enough to catch twigs.
Having a successful fire started is all about sticking to the sequence of fire starting. The spark catches the char cloth. The char cloth catches the rest of the tinder. The tinder then catches your kindling. The kindling catches the fuel wood and you can then boil water or cook a meal.
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Selecting Where to Camp
Selection of your campsite is important to the enjoyment of your camping experience. Would you rather waken to a sunny morning or a cold, damp shady greeting? Sometimes you have to accept the campsite your map and plans have led you to, but even then, there are usually several choices as to where you put your tent or tents.
Guide books will usually rate established campsites. Here are things I look for in the wild:
1. A level spot big enough to accommodate my tent and my camp buddies, and also a spot suitable for cooking. Avoid areas full of rodent holes; camp away from game trails.
2. Threatening trees full of overhead deadwood. Even large falling cones can provide a painful awakening.
3. Gullies, narrow valleys, etc. Flash floods may pose a serious and lethal hazard. I find that camps above the valley floor but below hill crests offer fewer mosquitoes, pleasing breezes, which also mean drier ground, without the high winds of hill tops, sunnier exposures, and better views. These are also more lightning safe.
4. Camp away from hiking trails.
5. Use established fire rings. If you must make a new one, clear ground, make a shallow pit, circle pit with rocks, and cover rocks with tin foil to avoid blackening and high impact on area.
Do not remove stones from creek beds – internal water may expand and cause the stone to explode. Collect only dead, fallen wood for your fire.
NEVER, NEVER pull wood from trees or shrubs. NEVER. Keep fires small – don’t waste wood. It takes time to replenish itself and other campers would love to find some wood available, too. Make sure there is a water source nearby. Restore campsite, as much as possible, to its “pre-you” state.
Types of Campfires
I have to believe that one of the first things a creature did once it climbed out of the primordial ooze was to seek warmth. I can certainly relate to that quest at the end of a long cold and wet day. Despite the fact that proper clothing should provide its wearer with adequate warmth, there is still something about the glow and radiant heat of a good campfire that all the right garments can never provide.
Like a friendly mongrel mutt, any fire can give you feelings of warmth. However, knowing how different fires direct and produce differing amounts of heat can help you make the best fire for different circumstances. The “science” of a fire is based on three elements: fuel, oxygen and heat.
The fuel is the material that will start and then keep the fire burning. In order to burn it must have oxygen. The oxygen combines with the gases emitted from the fuel as it’s consumed – that gas is released by heat applied to the fuel.
Eventually the fuel is consumed, the energy is released in light and heat and the process is sustained by adding more fuel or reinitiated when a fire is needed again.
The key to any good fire is a quick start, sometimes with only one or two chances to do so. Good tinder – small dry shavings or strands or globs or drippings of quickly combustible material used to start a fire – is critical.
Practice with whatever fire igniter you prefer and practice lighting the myriad varieties of tinder you can find outdoors: cattail fluff, birch bark, shredded dry leaves, small blades and stalks of grass, lint from you pockets – practicing what lights quickly and produces enough heat to start your tinder burning is a key skill in becoming a competent fire starter. Tinder is the base of your fire.
Most larger fires will usually be started from a tiny, burning pile of tinder (unless you happen to go the shortcut route and use Boy Scout Juice – lantern fuel!)
Once you’re comfortable selecting and using tinder, learn what type of kindling can be used to further fuel your fire.
The tinder should burn long and hot enough to generate the gases that will ultimately ignite and start the combustion process with the larger pieces of wood or burning material that will be used to sustain your fire for a longer period of time.
Tinder is usually dry sticks and twigs that can usually be collected on the ground, or in wet country, from downed and dead branches and trees. The native Americans called it “squaw wood” inferring it can be gathered without tools and much effort.
Sometimes larger, thicker pieces of bark or even stout canes and stalks from vegetation can be used as kindling. Tinder can also be used to generate a quick burst of heat for cooking, or light for better visibility around the camp. Once a fire is up and going, the larger pieces of wood can be used to maintain the fire with less monitoring than with smaller, more quickly consumed materials.
All fires are not the same; they can be built for specific purposes, to accent either heat or light, and can be constructed so as to radiate heat in a certain direction.
This is probably the most basic of fire designs. It is often used as a starter upon which bigger, longer-lasting fires are founded.
It’s also a great fire for a quick warm-up or water-boiling snack break. This fire uses mostly kindling, but larger teepees can be created by adding larger logs vertically to the fire. Many beach fires are large teepee fires where pole-sized driftwood is laid upright against others to form this familiar shape.
A teepee fire is a good fire to direct heat upward and can be used beneath a hung pot on a tripod for fast heating.
This fire consists of a foundation framework of large logs laid side by side to form a solid base. A slightly shorter log is laid perpendicular and on top of this first layer. Each subsequent layer is slightly shorter as the platform or pyramid rises. This solid mass of right angle firewood takes a little effort to light but its well worth it for the huge amount of coals it produces, especially when the fire is lit on the top most layer and burns down through the layers.
A lighter version of the Pyramid fire is the platform. It’s similar in shape to the pyramid fire except the logs are layered only along the outside edge (like walls on a log cabin) with each level of logs slightly shorter than the ones beneath.
This creates a hollow wood platform into which smaller kindling can be placed and ignited. It can provide quick warmth and be the start of any number of larger blazes.
Sometimes a fire is built between two long logs. If the logs are the same size, the tops of the log can be used to place pots for cooking.
It has the added advantage of prolonging the fire since the insides of the log are burning too, and it’s easy to direct the fire up or down the length of the side log, literally until the entire log eventually consumed.
A similar fire is the trench fire, used almost exclusively for cooking. These work by either blocking the wind or in funnelling the wind into the fire for a more concentrated and hotter “burn”. Several pots can be placed over the trench and the fire can be maintained at different levels for a variety of cooking options.
STAR or INDIAN FIRE:
A star fire, or Indian fire, is the fire design often depicted as the campfire of the old West. Imagine five or six logs laid out like the spokes of a wheel (star shaped). A fire is started at the “hub” and each log is pushed towards the center as the ends are consumed. It’s another fire that can be kept burning all night long with little maintenance.
A reflector fire is really any fire that has some sort of flat surface behind it to direct the heat back out past the fire. This surface is erected behind the fire and pointed, for example, at the face of a tent, lean-to or other shelter.
This back reflector can be made out of a few large slabs of bark, several logs laid against supports and stacked upon each other to form the surface. Rocks can also be used but just like those used to ring a fire, make sure they do not contain moisture.
That trapped moisture can be heated to where it’s like a steam engine with no release valve. Exploding rocks can send shrapnel and shards flying in every direction!
Several fire starters are on the market, from the basic match to clever kits that contain a flint-like material and striker unit all packaged together.
Space-age lighters and water/storm proof matches all can be your choice of fire starter. The most important thing to remember about fires is learning how to build and lit them long before you need one to save your life. Practice at home, make it a ceremonial task at your next camp out.
As humans I am convinced that the feelings evoked by a good campfire are remnants of our cave-dwelling ancestral days. Even if we have a good coat on our back, and a belly full of warm food cooked on a camp stove, there is something about a fire that makes the campsite complete.
Now understanding how to create effective wilderness survival shelters is one of the most important outdoor skills.
From keeping you protected from the elements to providing a place to rest, wilderness shelters serve a key role in survival situations. Not only do they provide for physical needs, but also help create a sense of home in the wilderness.
Though each season and environment presents its own challenges, there are several universal principles for creating effective wilderness survival shelters, the most important aspect of making wilderness shelters is choosing a good location.
A good location is one that 1) provides easy access to ample building materials such as dead sticks, leaves, and grasses; and is 2) away from major hazards such falling branches, pooling water, and insect nests.
You also want a location that has a large enough flat area to allow you to lie down and sleep comfortably.
Quite often a common mistake when building wilderness survival shelters is to build them too large. Not only does it take more materials, effort, and time to construct, but often ends up being cold due to the amount of space on the inside.
Effective wilderness shelters are often small on the inside – just large enough to fit your body to conserve body heat.
All shelters need to be constructed with safety in mind. Large strong branches can provide the initial framework for many types of survival shelters. Typically, branches used for frame work should be strong enough to easily support the weight of an adult. This is especially important for lean-to and debris style shelters.
Whether you are in a hot and sunny environment or a cold and wet forest, insulation and cover is important to keep you protected from the outside elements. Leaves, grasses, small sticks, ferns, and pine needles are types of debris that can be used for insulation.
Be sure to layer large amounts of debris on your shelter. Also, don’t forget to use debris to create a thick mattress on the inside of your shelter to insulate you from the cold ground, I would say it needs to be at least 18 inches deep.
Bark or soil can be added on the top and sides of your shelter to create a barrier from cold wind and rain.
In cool and cold environments the primary shelter concern is staying warm to avoid hypothermia.
With wilderness survival shelters, there are typically two choices for a heat source: your own body heat or heat from a fire.
Wilderness shelters that rely on your own body heat as the primary heat source (such as a debris hut), need to be small on the inside and have lots of extra insulating debris (imagine your mummy sleeping bag with ten times as much insulation).
If you plan to use a fire on the inside of your shelter as a heat source, carefully plan how it will be tended all night, be sure to collect a full night’s worth of firewood before dark, and be extra careful not to burn down your shelter!
The type of shelter you choose depends on many factors including what materials are available, environmental conditions, choice of heat source, and whether it will be a personal or group shelter.
So plan what type of shelter you want to use, bring a hammock and a sheet, build a lean to against a dry stone wall or between two trees, build whatever design you like but remember our typical summer weather and make it water and windproof.
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Your First Course Insects are the most abundant life form on earth and, except during winter, are the first foods anyone should turn to for sustenance upon becoming lost or stranded.
Not only can bugs be found in large quantities, but they are highly nutritious, being rich in fats, proteins, and carbohydrates.
The main caveat is that people who suffer from shellfish allergies should avoid them.
Grasshoppers are easy to pick off grass stems at dawn, when the nip in the air has caused them to go into torpor. Crickets, beetles, and grubs can be found under rocks.
Other good places to search include behind loose bark, in decaying stumps, and inside seed pods. Earth mounds often betray insect activity underneath.
For sorting through loose soil and rotted wood, it helps to use a digging stick. Another excellent tool for insect collection is a seine, which you can jury-rig by tying your shirt or handkerchief between two poles.
Use it to catch active bugs such as flying grasshoppers, or in a stream for aquatic insects.
Whatever your pleasure, you have your choice from more than 1,400 edible insects to choose from. If you’re from the United States, Europe or Canada, you may think that eating a bug is something reserved for bets, dares and reality TV shows.
The rest of the world has a different perspective. All over Asia, Africa, Australia, Central and South America, people eat insects.
Stranded in the wilderness for days, your stomach audibly groans from hunger. Foraging on plants or berries isn’t an option because you don’t know what’s safe to eat. Instead, you hunt.
Drawing on your dwindling energy, you manage to kill a rabbit. Now, the only thing that matters is getting that sustenance into your body fast. Building a fire and cooking could take more than an hour, so you contemplate eating it raw.
What’s the harm?
Not so fast. Sure — in the wilderness, some normal rules of civilization don’t apply.
But when it comes to meat, you need heat.
If you want to maximize your chance of survival, I recommend cooking all wild game and freshwater fish because of the threat of bacteria or parasites.
Bacteria thrive and multiply between 40 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit (4 and 60 degrees Celsius). That’s why you should cook meat until the internal temperature measures at least 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Celsius) to effectively break down the bacteria cells and prevent them from reproducing.
You’re probably thinking:
If that’s true, then how have Eskimos and other indigenous groups survived eating raw fish meat over the years? And what about eating raw fish in dishes such as sushi?
The difference is the salt water and the temperature of the meat.
Saltwater fish are safer to eat raw because the water actually helps to kill parasites and bacteria.
The salt in the water creates a hypertonic solution, where a higher concentration of salt exists outside of the bacteria cells than inside those cells.
To correct that imbalance, the bacteria cells release their water content through osmosis. When they lose that water, they shrivel up and die. In addition, when Eskimos eat raw whale and seal meat fresh, it hasn’t had time to breed more bacteria.
Cold temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 degrees Celsius) also stop bacteria reproduction. Sushi-grade fish, called sashimi, that people commonly eat raw has been frozen before use to help destroy any remaining bacteria.
In case of any lingering invaders, food safety guides do recommend heating all saltwater fish to more than 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius).
Food is not just a source of energy and sustenance, but a comfort item as well.
When you are hungry, morale goes down and chances of survival dwindle. There will be several opportunities to find food after the supermarkets close you just need to know where to look and what tools to have.
The first thing you need to know is that meat will only take you only so far. If you read Meriwether Lewis’s journals from their Finding Food after TEOTWAWKI exploration; the men still felt hungry although they were eating several pounds of meat per day.
You can eat 10 rabbits a day and still “starve” as rabbit lacks everything except protein for your body’s survival.
Look if I have a choice of eating “normal” food then I will by planning to do so. I intend to bug-in and therefore I will not need to eat the above, well the bugs anyway.
Hunting and fishing are a different matter altogether, I enjoy doing them and I have learned how to deal with what I shoot or catch in getting it ready to eat.
You too must plan as to what you and your family will eat. I suggest the more people who decide that they will bug-out, the more that I think will end up eating bugs.
Simply put if you have prepped enough food and supplies for you and your family for a long term SHTF situation then, if bugging out, how will you transport this food and supplies to your bug-out location?
I do not think that you will be able to do it, OK you can reader, but I do not think that everyone can.
Have you thought, no, let me put it another way, have you actually loaded up the kids, the pets, the survival kit, weapons, ammo, clothing, shelter, water, food and everything else you have bought for your families survival and driven anywhere,
NO, I thought not.
And there my fellow preppers is the problem, and if you have not practiced doing it how the hell will you manage when SHTF?
To make your own preparedness plan, start by compiling a survival food list including the type and quantity of food items to have on hand.
Emergency survival food has come a long way since the cold war era. And it’s no longer limited to canned goods and military style meals-ready-to-eat (MRE’s) either.
Having a plentiful store of food for long-term needs within your home makes you better prepared for: income loss, economic crisis, civil unrest, flu pandemic, hurricane, loss of power, interruption in the food supply, terrorist attack or any other situation in which buying food from usual sources becomes untenable.
Prepare a food storage area in your home, using a large closet or small basement room if available, and begin stocking it today. The area should be clean, dry, free of pests, and cool with low humidity.
Sturdy shelving allows you to organize what you have and makes room for more items. Never store foods in a garage or attic, as these areas of the home typically see very high temperatures in the summer.
When it comes to survival food, you can’t be too prepared.
Obtain quality items, such as freeze dried food and dehydrated items, while it’s still easy and relatively inexpensive. You never know when your life will depend on this foresight.
Survival Foods Guide
Freeze dried, dehydrated, canned and other survival foods there are a variety of food storage and preservation methods that make good survival food stashes.
One of the best choices for quality, long-lasting, nutritious and palatable survival foods is freeze dried foods, often stored in sealed cans and foil pouches.
The foods are lightweight, making them great choices for camping and hiking as well as long-term food storage for survival.
Bulk grains, such as wheat, oats, rice, and corn are an essential element to any home food storage. You just rotate the grains and use them in your regular cooking and baking every week.
If you decide to add bulk grains to your survival food list, be sure to store them properly in sealed food quality containers, such as plastic buckets with tight-fitting lids and oxygen absorbers.
You’ll need a grain mill, which you can buy online
dehydrated foods, though they have a shorter shelf life than freeze dried, are also a good choice for home food storage. Beef jerky, and dried fruits and vegetables add variety to the diet and can be used as treats.
They are also fairly inexpensive, and should be rotated, used and replaced throughout the year. After all, the goal is to store what you eat and eat what you store.
Canned goods are another good addition, as long as they are rotated and used and replaced throughout the year.
Water is essential and should be your top priority on your survival food list.
A source of fresh water, such as a well outfitted with a hand pump in case of emergency, is obviously ideal. But for most people, Water Filters, Purifiers and Storage containers will be necessary to ensure clean water in case of a power outage or other long-term emergency.
For those with celiac disease, gluten free freeze dried foods are one of the best ways to prepare for unknown emergencies with foods that will be edible and not cause digestive problems.
In addition to freeze dried options, there are many “regular” foods, from rice pasta to steel cut oats to dried fruit that are without gluten and non-perishable so that they store well.
Since you never know when disaster may strike, building your food storage with a variety of dry goods, freeze dried entrees and other food items are a physical insurance policy against many emergencies and catastrophes.
Have you ever tried to build a shelter with frozen fingers?
Have you ever tried to use natural cordage with frozen fingers?
Have you ever tried to attach anything to your back pack?
Have you ever tried to secure a broken limb without any cordage?
Have you ever tried to tie something to a tree branch without cordage?
Have you ever tried to assemble a trap without cordage?
The answer probably is a certain no.
But if you had to then how would you actually do it?
My survival tip is to use cable ties, simple.
So when building a shelter use the cable ties to initially hold it together then you can fix it properly with paracord or natural cordage.
Ken at MidiMax.co.uk is offering 10% off any product by using the code Midi10 so check out www.midimax.co.uk
In our outdoor activities, we must learn to bring the clothing and gear we need, to make good plans, and do our best to manage any risks. But now and then, something unexpected happens. When things go wrong, the skills of wilderness survival can help make everything right again.
As preppers and survivalists we should be able to how that we know first aid for and how to prevent injuries or illnesses that could occur in the outdoors, including hypothermia, heat reactions, frostbite, dehydration, blisters, insect Sting and tick bites.
From memory, we should be able to list the seven priorities for survival in a wilderness location.
In a group we should discuss ways to avoid panic and maintain a high level of morale when lost, and explain why this is important.
We should be able to describe the steps we would take to survive in the following conditions:
Cold and snowy
Hot and dry (desert)
Windy (mountains or plains)
Water (ocean, lake, or river)
We should be able to put together a personal survival kit and explain how each item in it could be useful.
Using three different methods (other than matches), build and light three fires.
Do the following:
Show five different ways to attract attention when lost.
Demonstrate how to use a signal mirror.
Describe from memory five ground-to-air signals and say what they mean.
Improvise a natural shelter. For the purpose of this demonstration, use techniques that have little negative impact on the environment. Spend a night in your shelter.
Demonstrate three ways to treat water found in the outdoors to prepare it for drinking.
Show that you know the proper clothing to wear in your area on an overnight in extremely hot weather and in extremely cold weather.
Just walk into the woods empty handed and you’ll soon encounter the first tool.
A knife takes a little more evolution to create, but there’s always a stick at hand. Even a crude broken branch has loads of potential uses, from brushing aside the webs of spiders to keeping enemies at a distance.
Ever since humans learned to walk upright they’ve compensated for the loss of those two other feet with sticks.
Go onto a modern hiking trail today, however, and the staff is a rare item. People are almost embarrassed to carry them.
Is it a sign of weakness? a mark of age? a fashion miss statement? Unless it’s a high tech trekking pole, the staff has fallen out of favour.
Historically, stick weapons are the mainstay of cultures where people travel isolated and wild pathways yet do not wish to present a threatening appearance.
If you want a fundamental level of defensive ability without looking like a paranoid invader, the staff is the perfect choice.
Although we think of today’s world, especially here in the UK, as tame and civilized, the reality we face in the wilderness isn’t so different from that of older and tougher days.
Animals of all kinds share the world with us and get cranky about it, and you can’t trust everyone you meet on the trail. A good poking stick can preserve the peace without causing serious injury.
In recent times society’s reaction to any form of animal violence has been to eliminate both species and ecosystem. I think we’ve grown beyond that, but not far beyond that. In modern instances of predation against humans, the individual animals pay the price–as well as any suspect animals who just happen to be in the area.
Our fellow beasts are intelligent as well as cautious–if they test one of us, and learn that we are pointy and belligerent, they probably will not try us out again.
That’s good for everybody. The guy with the stick is not dangerous to the balance; the guy without one is.
Luckily, I have seldom had any reason to apply this aspect of the art of Stick. The most common encounters I’ve had are with cows and the loose dogs who probably already had a low opinion of humans.
The only potentially deadly confrontation in my collection was with a grumpy young bull who showed up in a bad mood as I was trying to cross his field. No real carnivores have ever attacked me, and they probably won’t. I carry a big stick.
The hiking staff is much more than a self-defence device tool. It will be used most often for very ordinary things like keeping your footing. I can think of any number of reasons to have one.
To part underbrush on a trail, to take some weight and balance before you shift from this boulder to that ledge, to prop yourself against a current on a swift water crossing–the needs and the uses are endless.
Yes, you could make a staff on the spot, when you happen to need one–no, if you choose that last minute response, you won’t have anything dependable.
A good staff will save your life. A rotten branch won’t.
When it comes to a survival situation, having a useful weapon is a necessity.
However, an easily obtained weapon is not always readily available.
That said though if one uses their wits about them they can fashion an effective survival spear from many different materials.
One of the first types of survival spears that can be relatively easy to make is the wood tipped spear.
To make this spear, you simply need a straight piece of wood and a knife. You then take the knife and sharpen one end of the straight wooden piece into a spear point.
To strengthen this weapon, you can fire harden the tip of it.
In order to fire harden the tip of it, you will need to place the tip of the spear into the fire and let the tip begin to burn. As soon as the tip begins to burn, you remove the spear from the fire and extinguish the burning end of the spear.
At this point, you then use your knife to scrape any charred wood from the tip of the spear. The spear is now finished and the tip has been fire hardened to make a sharp and durable weapon.
Another type of survival spear that can easily be produced is the rock or glass tipped spear. To make this type of spear, you simply need a straight piece of wood, a knife, a sharp piece of rock or glass, and a length of some kind of cordage.
With these materials, you first split one end of the straight wooden piece down the centre of the shaft for a length of about 2 inches. Then you place the blunt end of the sharp piece of rock or glass into this split.
Make sure to position the sharp side of the rock or glass to the outside so that the tip of the spear will be sharp. Next use the cordage to tightly tie the split back together. Once this is done, the spear should be finished.
It is a good idea to make sure that the tip of the spear is firmly locked into position. If there is any slack in the spearhead, then you should tie the cordage tighter around the split in the wooden piece until the spearhead cannot move. Once this is accomplished, the spear is completed.
The final type of survival spear that can be easily produced is the metal tipped spear. This type of spear requires you to have a sharp piece of metal or a few straight sharp metal pieces, like bike spokes.
Then you will also need a knife, some form of cordage, and a straight wooden piece.
Once these materials are in hand, you can begin making your spear. To make this type of spear, you need to either split the wood down the middle in the case of a single metal spear point, or you will need to sharpen the wood piece to a tip in the case of using several sharp narrow metal pieces.
Then use the cordage to secure the single metal point into the wooden split, if this is the type of spear point you are working with.
If you are working with multiple narrow metal points, then you will use the cordage to secure these pieces to the outside of the spear around the sharpened wooden tip.
Once this is done the spear will be finished. Of the three types of spears mentioned here for survival, this is the most durable and useful.
A metal tipped spear cannot only be useful for hunting game, but it can also be used for fishing and defending yourself against threats.
Overall, the knowledge gained from making your own survival spear will serve you well, should you ever be in a survival situation. It will allow you to quickly and easily make a weapon that can help you to procure food and to defend against threats.
In the end, the skill and know-how gained from building your own survival spear could one day save your life.
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As survivors we often think in terms of taking action in order to survive.
For example we have our bug-out bags pre-packed and are ready to go, so that we may walk or drive many miles with enough supplies to get us there.
Survivors know how to build a fire in many different ways under a variety of adverse conditions. Survivors can obtain drinkable water and forage edible foods from a plethora of sources.
As survival experts we can defend ourselves and our property to the best of our ability.
And that is just the beginning. When the going gets tough the experienced wilderness and urban survivor springs into action, taking adversity head on.
But not always. A wise old friend of mine once told me, “Sometimes the best thing you can do – is do nothing!”
When the going gets tough sometimes the best thing to do is to take a long nap. During very bad weather or social unrest it is often not wise to continue on with your plans.
Rather than flail about in wind and storm or risk altercation during social unrest, simply go to sleep and wait it out! You will save your energy, reduce the risk of injury, and get a good rest besides.
Sometimes the best thing you can do- is do nothing!
This strategy has been employed by experienced wilderness survivors such as the northern Native Americans during foul winter weather, arctic explorers, and high mountain expeditions like those on Mount Everest and K2.
Even the very squirrels and other animals, natures experienced survival instructors, will hunker down during the worst of conditions. They simply curl up in their dens and go to sleep.
During a survival situation of any kind, the ability to sleep warm, dry, and comfortable is very important and can mean the difference between health and the ability to take action during waking hours or possibly not making it out alive.
If you have the proper survival gear and knowledge, your outdoor sleep system can get you through the most trying of times with little expenditure of precious energy or exposure to danger.
Fear – For anyone faced with a wilderness emergency survival situation, fear is a normal reaction. Unless an emergency situation has been anticipated, fear is generally followed by panic then pain, cold, thirst, hunger, fatigue, boredom and loneliness. It is extremely important to calmly assess the situation and not allow these seven enemies to interfere with your survival.
Pain – Pain may often be ignored in a panic situation. Remember to deal with injuries immediately before they become even more serious.
Cold – Cold lowers the ability to think, numbing the body and reducing the will to survive. Never allow yourself to stop moving or to fall asleep unless adequately sheltered.
Thirst – Dehydration is a common enemy in an emergency situation and must not be ignored. It can dull your mind, causing you to overlook important survival information.
Hunger – Hunger is dangerous but seldom deadly. It may reduce your ability to think logically and increase your susceptibility to the effects of cold, pain and fear.
Fatigue – Fatigue is unavoidable in any situation so it is best to keep in mind that it can and will lower your mental ability. Remember that in an emergency situation this is often the bodies way of escaping a difficult situation.
Boredom & Loneliness – These enemies are quite often unanticipated and may lower the mind’s ability to deal with the situation.
Building a fire is the most important task when dealing with survival in the wilderness. Be sure to build yours in a sandy or rocky area or near a supply of sand and water as to avoid forest fires. The most common mistakes made by those attempting to build a fire are: choosing poor tinder, failing to shield precious matches from the wind and smothering the flames with too large pieces of fuel. The four most important factors when starting a fire are spark – tinder – fuel – oxygen.
1. Waterproof, strike-anywhere matches are your best bet. Matches may be water-proofed by dipping them in nail polish. Store your matches in a waterproof container.
2. A cigarette lighter is also a good way to produce a spark, with or without fuel.
3. The flint and steel method is one of the oldest and most reliable methods in fire starting. Aim the sparks at a pile of dry tinder to produce a fire.
4. The electric spark produced from a battery will ignite a gasoline dampened rag.
5. Remove half of the powder from a bullet and pour it into the tinder. Next place a rag in the cartridge case of the gun and fire. The rag should ignite and then may be placed into the tinder.
6. Allow the sun’s rays to pass through a magnifying glass onto the tinder.
Dry grass, paper or cloth lint, gasoline-soaked rags and dry bark are all forms of tinder. Place your tinder in a small pile resembling a tepee with the driest pieces at the bottom. Use a fire starter or strip of pitch if it is available.
Before building your shelter be sure that the surrounding area provides the materials needed to build a good fire, a good water source and shelter from the wind. It is important to keep in mind that smaller pieces of kindling such as, twigs, bark, shavings and gasoline, are necessary when trying to ignite larger pieces of fuel.
Gather fuel before attempting to start your fire. Obviously dry wood burns better and wet or pitchy wood will create more smoke. Dense, dry wood will burn slow and hot. A well ventilated fire will burn best.
Wilderness shelters may include:
1. Natural shelters such as caves and overhanging cliffs. When exploring a possible shelter tie a piece of string to the outer mouth of the cave to ensure you will be able to find your way out. Keep in mind that these caves may already be occupied. If you do use a cave for shelter, build your fire near its mouth to prevent animals from entering.
2. Enlarge the natural pit under a fallen tree and line it with bark or tree boughs.
3. Near a rocky coastal area, build a rock shelter in the shape of a U, covering the roof with driftwood and a tarp or even seaweed for protection.
4. A lean-to made with poles or fallen trees and a covering of plastic, boughs, thick grasses or bark is effective to shelter you from wind, rain and snow.
5. A wigwam may be constructed using three long poles. Tie the tops of the poles together and upright them in an appropriate spot. Cover the sides with a tarp, boughs, raingear or other suitable materials. Build a fire in the centre of the wigwam, making a draft channel in the wall and a small hole in the top to allow smoke to escape.
6. If you find yourself in open terrain, a snow cave will provide good shelter. Find a drift and burrow a tunnel into the side for about 60 cm (24 in) then build your chamber. The entrance of the tunnel should lead to the lowest level of you chamber where the cooking and storage of equipment will be. A minimum of two ventilating holes are necessary, preferably one in the roof and one in the door.
Clothing must provide warmth and offer protection from the elements. Layers of light, natural fibers are best. Hats are a must, as they offer protection from both the heat and cold. Water proof outer layers are necessary.
Equipment must be easily manageable and promote survival in any situation. Items to carry in your pockets may include a fire starter, waterproof matches and/or lighter, a pocket knife, goggles, compass, small first-aid kit and some sort of trail food.
Items for your survival kit should be packed in a waterproof container that can double as a cooking pot and water receptacle and be attached to your belt.
In addition to a survival kit, a good, comfortable backpack is mandatory. Loads of about 18 kg (40 lb.) are average. Items to include are; flashlight, extra jacket, socks and mittens, a pocket saw, gas camp stove, first aid kit, emergency food, and a tent and fly.
Useful items to include on your trek are:
1. A map and compass.
2. A large, bright plastic bag will be useful as a shelter, signalling device or in lieu of raingear.
3. A flashlight with extra batteries.
4. Extra water and food.
5. Extra clothing such as raingear, a toque and gloves, a sweater and pants.
6. Sun protection such as sunglasses, sunscreen, a hat and long sleeved clothing.
7. A sharp pocket knife.
8. Waterproof matches, a lighter and/or a flint.
9. Candles and fire starter.
10. A first aid kit.
11. A whistle, flares, a tarp.
Before going into the wilderness check weather forecasts and local any hazards that could cause you problem.
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Owl Eyes: A Core Awareness Skill
Picture an owl perched on a tree branch 25ft above the ground. Sitting there motionless with its owl eyes in a fixed gaze. The “form” we are gaining from the “owl” is that of wide peripheral vision. Stillness yields motion for the owl. When the owl holds perfect stillness, all motion is very evident.
The bird language practitioner or tracker gains from this by practicing the same kind of stillness and wide-angle vision as demonstrated by the owl. To utilize this best, owl eyes should be applied in combination with Fox Walking, and other moving forms, and is exceptional practice at the quiet sit.
Owls have developed eyes so big and so powerful that they have actually outgrown their eye sockets and are “frozen” in place.
Imagine that you are an owl. Look straight ahead and imagine that your eyeballs are stuck in your eye sockets and cannot move.
Now, look straight ahead toward wherever your body is facing. Pick a spot directly across from you that you can train your eyes on without moving. Hold that spot in the centre of your vision as your focal point. If your eyes wander off, bring them back to your focal point again. Always return to that one spot.
While staring at that spot and without moving your eyeballs, notice that you can also see part of the ground or floor between you and that spot.
And without moving your eyeballs you can see part of the sky or ceiling between you and that spot. You can see the ground, the sky, and that spot all at the same time using your peripheral vision. This is owl eyes.
Build on this peripheral vision now by adding to your awareness the farthest thing you can see to the left and the farthest thing you can see to the right, all without moving your eyeballs. You can see these five things at once: your focal point, the ground, the sky, the extreme left, and the extreme right.
How to improve/Practice- from an early age most of us have mostly utilized a narrow field vision. Reading words on a page, for instance, mandates a tunnelling of our vision.
Therefore, the rods and cones within the retina allowing owl eyes to work have not been physically exercised. Most likely you will repeatedly slip back into a more focused vision.
Therefore a conscious effort to practice owl eyes is crucial for integrating this technique into your routines. Through practice you will watch your field of vision literally expand to encompass a larger area.
The best way to survive a disaster or emergency situation is to be prepared for it. People have known this for years; it’s the reason our society has storm cellars and fire extinguishers.
Outdoor enthusiasts, however, face a more challenging obstacle when trying to prepare for an unfortunate camping, hiking, hunting, or fishing emergency.
Or preppers and survivalists training for a SHTF event out in the woods, or even Bugging Out for real.
The sheer number of different types of disasters that can happen to an even seasoned outdoor enthusiast makes it especially hard to prepare essential tools and supplies before leaving on an adventure.
You might think did I forget something? Do I have too much of one item? Not enough? Putting together a survival kit for you can be frustrating, time-consuming, and costly. Luckily, many outdoor supply companies carry pre-assembled survival kits, or can at least help you put yours together.
But first, you’ll want to understand the specific types of dangers your outdoor activity presents and the best ways to protect yourself against them.
Different outdoor activities present different physical challenges to enthusiasts. These different challenges require different types of survival kits.
The camping or hiking enthusiast will most likely be more concerned with reliable navigation tools, such as maps and compasses, and making sure he or she has plenty of provisions.
The hunter, however, might be more concerned with his or her protection against potentially dangerous animals, while those who fish will obviously want to bring plenty of dry clothes.
It’s important not to get too caught up in the niche of your specific outdoor activity, however. Just because the main point of your trip may be camping doesn’t mean you shouldn’t bring along a hunting knife or fishhooks.
The prepper and survivalist must plan for all these eventualities while either training or seeking a covert life style.
Another important aspect of your adventure to consider when deciding on a survival kit is the climate and terrain of where your outdoor activity is taking place. Different weather extremes can cause problems for outdoor enthusiasts, even on a single trip.
Hikers traveling through the cool lowland lakes area can still experience heat exhaustion, especially in the summer, just as desert campers can easily freeze at night despite the daytime heat.
Get a professional opinion of what you should include in your survival kit if you are unfamiliar with the climate and weather patterns of the area you’re exploring.
Of course, there are basic items that are essential to any survival kit, no matter what your outdoor activity of choice. The most important components of a survival kit are ones that satisfy the following needs: protection against the elements, or, shelter; first aid or medical supplies; food, water, or the tools needed to procure them; ways to signal rescuers; and finally, tools to help guide outdoor enthusiasts back to familiar territory.
The duration of your outdoor adventure will determine how thoroughly you should pack your survival kit, but here are a few essentials.
The best way to keep warm and protect your from the elements is by packing lightweight, water-resistant clothing and blankets. Reflective aluminium blankets help retain body heat and act as signals to rescuers.
Waterproof ponchos are an effective way to stay dry in wet climates, as well as being lightweight and easy to pack.
Mosquito nets are another easy-to-pack, effective protection method against nasty elements.
You will probably want to start a fire, so include in your survival kit tools that will help you do so. Waterproof matches and lighters are easy and convenient, but if you happen to be in an outdoor setting for long you run the risk of running out of matches or fuel for your lighter.
Do-it-yourself tools, such as fire steel, can help provide you with warmth longer and with greater reliability.
Making sure you keep your physical body healthy is essential for outdoor enthusiasts.
Any good survival kit will include first aid supplies meant to treat a wide variety of health problems or accidents.
Bandages, sterile pads, gauze, and disinfectant are crucial if you happen to experience a flesh wound while aspirin, antacids, and allergy medication will help with internal afflictions.
Other first-aid items you will want to include are insect repellent, lip-balm, sunscreen, toilet paper, feminine hygiene products, and a large supply of any prescription medication you take.
Food and water are essential safety kit items but are unfortunately difficult to pack in bulk. It is recommended to have at least three gallons of water – a three to six day supply – on hand for any outdoor trip, unless you plan to filter your drinking water un-route.
Ready-to-eat or canned foods are great but take up a lot of space in a kit. High-energy foods, such as chocolate, nuts, and dehydrated fruits, are a better bet; they are more compact and are easier to ration, making them last longer.
Multi-vitamins are also a good idea; in an emergency situation you may not be getting all the nutrients your body needs to stay healthy.
Finally, you will want to pack items that will help search-and-rescue workers find you more easily. Lightweight LED flashlights and lanterns are perfect. They have long battery lives and can be spotted from quite far away.
Flares are attention-grabbing, yes, but are single-use and carry the risk of starting an unwanted fire. A good compass can help you find your way back to more familiar areas or, at the very least, get you comfortable with the terrain you’re currently in.
Many outdoor supply companies sell multipurpose tools that have miniature compasses built in.
these are very handy reduce the number of items you have to carry in your survival kit.
There may be, of course, other items you deem essential to your specific outdoor adventure.
While it is important to be prepared, you don’t want to over pack and weigh yourself down unnecessarily.
Survival kits should be helpful, not burdensome. Wherever your enthusiasm lies – camping, hiking, hunting, fishing – a well-packed, well-prepared survival kit will add peace of mind to your adventure, even if you never have to use it.
Making a Survival Kit is essential for people who live in areas that are prone to natural disasters.
The majority of these disasters are earthquake, flooding, hurricane, bush fires, tsunamis, etc. A bug out bag is not only necessary for all households but for sportsmen as well.
There are times, that survival skills equates to life or death and this determines the well-being of a person during emergencies. Making a survival kit does not only equate to the preparation of some items to survive a catastrophe being trained to use the actual survival kit items is also necessary.
There are survivalist who refute the usefulness of making a survival kit. This is due to the fact that people who make them do not really have the actual hands on experience with the items.
In this regard, we may say that these survivalist are correct. What will be the use of these materials if a person does not qualify or know how to use them?
Throughout this article I will not only discuss how important the making a survival kit is but how the 10 most important items are to be used. Scenarios such as being lost in a wood can turn out into an ugly situation, however if you have your urban survival kit things can be steered into a more positive experience.
There was a story of a 93 year old woman who survived a devastating snow storm. She remained inside her house for 5 days. When rescue arrived, she was asked if she wanted to evacuate, she refused evacuation and asked for fire wood instead.
She survived eating canned foods and was able to warm herself by burning fire wood she does not have knowledge of making a survival kit. Using her common sense and being prepared at all times helped her through.
A survival story does not have to be grand, laced with several horrific incidents however not all stories have a happy ending but being equipped with the correct tools and knowledge may ensure safety.
Steps in making a survival kit
1. Making a survival kit requires a list of the most important things to include in your very own kit. Create a list of the things you may need once a disaster or emergency occurs.
2. Pick a container big enough to contain all of the items in your list. The container should be easy to carry around and have a room for all the items that you may need.
3. Gather your materials the most important are the things that will aid you once you are on the run or looking for an evacuation centre where food and other necessities are present. We will break down the materials that you may need while you are looking for a suitable temporary shelter.
4. Water – When making a survival kit make sure that all persons in the household are accounted for. One gallon of water is suffice for a person for one day. Your kit must contain supplies that will last for 3 days or 72 hours.
5. Food – When a tragedy strikes expect that food will be scarce. When making a survival kit, make sure to include food that has a long shelf life, a good source of energy and no cooking is necessary
6. Clothing – Warmth is important, pack clothes that are warm and comfortable for movement.
7. Making a survival kit is not complete without the items that will allow you to know what is going on around you. Prepare a battery operated transistor radio with fresh batteries. Also include whistles, flares and matches.
8. Include a first aid kit in your survival kit, medical supplies such as over-the-counter medicines, special medical equipment if someone in the household needs it. Although some medical apparatus is heavy and may slow you down find an alternative for it if possible. If there are infants, make sure that the supplies they need are also included in your kit.
Making a survival kit is not easy, but it will prove to be useful in the future.
The logic behind in making a survival kit
Making a survival kit may prove to be useless if the person who has it does not know how to use the items included in it.
Train yourself on how to use and operate items that are included in your kit. Read manuals ahead of time to ensure that the emergency arrives you are well prepared.
Making a survival kit requires patience and dedication, you do not have to have all the materials right away, however you will have to complete it as soon as you can. In doing so, you are well prepared and ready for an emergency.
If a certain situation arrives and you are unsure of what to do, ensure that you think clearly and assess the situation. Your survival kit items are your life line during emergencies.
Making a survival kit does not ensure your safety however it increases your survival rate dramatically.
Nigel at www.hunters-knives.co.uk has offered you dear listener 10% on all his products simply by using the code PREP10.
This week I begin my show with My Thoughts on Prepping, then the Blizzard Survival 10% Discount offer, As Preppers Have We Forgotten the Basics? What Is The Scariest Object In The World? The Ribzwear 30% Discount offer, Stop a Heart Attack in a Minute, Preparing Your Vehicle for Winter, Training in the wet, the Wilderness121 10% Discount offer, Camp-Fire Squirrel, Basic Bug-in Kits, the Midimax 10% Discount offer, Planning an Emergency Shelter, the Field leisure 10% Discount offer, Hope for the Best and Plan for the Worst, the BUGGRUB 10% Discount offer, Bug-In or Bug-Out, Route Planning, the Hunters-Knives 10% Discount offer, Being Ready for a Dirty Bomb.
“Surviving to Fight means Fighting to Survive”
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I start this weeks show with my survival knife the Titan, then the BUGGRUB 10% Discount offer, Fishing to survive, Survival Skills in Your Head, the Blizzard Survival 20% Discount offer, Small Game Hunting Strategies, Keeping Warm in the Wilderness, the Ribzwear 30% Discount offer, Drying Food to Preserve it, the Wilderness121 10% Discount offer, Common Prepping Mistakes, the Midimax 10% Discount offer, Attracting Rescuer’s Attention, Fish Antibiotics for Humans and why not? The Fieldleisure 10% Discount offer, Preppers are we clever or not? Freshwater Fish and Chips, the Hunters-Knives 10% Discount offer, The Lifestraw GO Review.
“Surviving to Fight means Fighting to Survive”
Click here to listen to the show
I start this weeks show with my survival knife the Titan, then the Wilderness Gathering 2015 Report, Blizzard Survival 2% Discount offer, How To Purify Water – Water Purification Process, The Get Home Bag? The Ribzwear 30% Discount offer, What is Emergency food? My Thoughts on EMP, the Wilderness 121's 10% Discount offer, The Bug Out Week North East 2015 is Coming, Homemade Cheese, Survival Cooking Risks, the Midimax 10% Discount offer, What Goes Into You BOB? Little Boy, the Field Leisure 10% Discount offer, Has Anyone Tried This? The BUGGRUB 10% Discount offer, The Deadly Enemies to Your Survival, the Hunters-Knives 10% Discount offer.
I begin this weeks show with the BUSHCRAFT SHOW 23rd to 25th May, then the Blizzard Survival 20% Discount Offer, THE TWELTH WILDERNESS GATHERING 2015 13th to 16th August, the Ribzwear 30% Discount Offer, EU Ticks Invade UK, The U.K mock SHTF scenario DX w/e (part 3), Wilderness121’s 10% Discount Offer, How SHTF can happen Just Like That, Urban Prepping, The Midimax 10% Discount Offer, The Camping Survival Plan, The Fieldleisure 10% Discount Offer, The Mid Wales,Bushcraft Show and Wild Camp, Emergency
Survival Items Bug-Out-Bag The Buggrub 10% Discount Offer, What Will you do When the Grid Fails? The Common Nettle, The Hunters-Knives 10% Discount Offer, The
CUP Bug-Out Weekend 2015 Report The Pits & Bits Review.