Show Contents 7th August 2015

“Surviving to Fight means Fighting to Survive”

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Show Notes

I start this weeks show with my survival knife the Titan, then the BUGGRUB 10% Discount offer, Fishing to survive, Survival Skills in Your Head, the Blizzard Survival 20% Discount offer, Small Game Hunting Strategies, Keeping Warm in the Wilderness, the Ribzwear 30% Discount offer, Drying Food to Preserve it, the Wilderness121 10% Discount offer, Common Prepping Mistakes, the Midimax 10% Discount offer, Attracting Rescuer’s Attention, Fish Antibiotics for Humans and why not? The Fieldleisure 10% Discount offer, Preppers are we clever or not? Freshwater Fish and Chips, the Hunters-Knives 10% Discount offer, The Lifestraw GO Review.

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Fishing to Survive

In a survival situation, once you have found shelter, built a fire and collected water, your next task will be to find food resources.

And whilst it is perfectly possible to exist without food for a few weeks and live off edible wild plants and berries, you’ll no doubt be glad of a hearty meal.

Therefore, it’s very useful to learn some fishing skills and here are some tips; assuming that you have no fishing gear with you.

If you’re near water, the first thing you must do if you’re looking to catch fish is to spend a bit of time observing how the fish behave each day.

Like you, they’ll also be looking for their next meal, so you’ll need to establish their habits – when they’re active, where in the water they head for etc.

An additional tip, however, is to consider the temperature if you’re not sure where to look. In hot weather where the water is low, you’ll probably find them in deeper shaded water and when it’s cooler, you’ll find them in shallower areas where the sun warms the water up.

Some type of cord should always form part of your survival kit anyway and if you haven’t included a proper fishing hook too, you can always improvise and craft one out of a piece of bone, thorn, wood or a safety pin works just as well.

For bait, it’s useful to try to gain an idea of what the fish in the area are eating. Insects, a piece of bread, some raw meat, if you can find any, or worms are all good sources of bait.

Survival fishing isn’t an exact science though.

The more hooks you have in the water and your willingness to be patient and to experiment are going to be your biggest allies. Bad weather approaching is always a good time to go fishing as well as just after dawn and just before dusk.

If you are handy using your knife to carve out a piece of wood, making a spear to fish with in shallow water is another alternative but if you see fish swimming around in shallow water, it’s a useful skill to learn even though it takes an extreme amount of skill, quick reactions and patience.

A forked spear which can trap the fish between its prongs works best.

As for a net, you can fashion one out of using some kind of shirt or T-shirt tied onto a Y shaped branch.

Only your imagination can limit you to the kinds of fish traps you can engineer.

One of the simplest methods is to use the effects of the tide.

On a beach or area with tidal waters, build a circle of rocks and use small pebbles to plug any gaps.

When the tide comes in, it will bring small fish in with it.

Simply return to the rock circle later and see what you’ve caught.

Most fish found in freshwater are edible although some will taste better than others.

However, it’s important to remember that it’s not a matter of taste but a matter of survival. Once caught, cut the throat and gut it by slitting it from its anal passage to its throat removing the offal as you go.

Remove the head, tail and fins then smoke, grill or boil it.

Survival Skills in Your Head

People sometimes forget that the smallest 20 Skills You Can Trade After SHTF and most convenient storage space is in their own heads.

If you find yourself in the midst of a disaster and you need to either build or fix something, having the knowledge and experience already in your mind will hugely benefit your ability to survive.

And if there’s something you need from your neighbours but you’re not willing to trade any of your supplies, you could do some work for them in exchange.

But what sort of skills will be the most useful after SHTF?

Knowing Microsoft Excel might not do you much good, but knowing how to make soap could mean the difference between health and sickness.

Or maybe you could trade your soap for more food. The point is, you need to learn a few skills that will be useful in a post-disaster world.

I suggest you take up one as a hobby while you still have time to learn.

Here, then, are 20 skills you can trade after the SHTF, listed in alphabetical order:

Animal Husbandry The ability to raise animals such as chicken for eggs, rabbits for meat, goats for milk, etc.

There is a limit to how much meat and dairy people will be able to store, and there will be a huge demand for fresh food.

Cleaning Not just washing your hands, but the ability to clean clothes without a washer and dryer, make cleaning products to use around the house, and keep your home germ free.

Clothing. If times are tough, people won’t be able to go out and charge new clothes and shoes any time they need them.

They’re going to need to fix shoes, patch torn pants, and mend shirts. This is an important skill that has become very rare in modern society.

Construction Especially without power tools. Is worth knowing, how to properly fix roofs, board up windows or build outhouses using only basic hand tools.

Cooking skills will be very much sought after as people are going to get sick and tired of eating canned soup and freeze-dried food.

If you can cook a tasty meal and dessert without power, people in the neighbourhood will thank you with favours or supplies they don’t need.

Most people live their entire lives without realizing how much misery they would experience if not for the dentist.

A perfect example of this is in the movie Cast Away where the main character has to knock out one of his own teeth.

Someone who knows how to clean and remove teeth could be a great help.

Fire Making will be a great skill to have as people won’t know how to start a fire once they’re lighters run out of fuel. People in your area will be safer and healthier if you can help them get a fire going so they can boil water and cook food.

First Aid/Medical skills will become vital as people tend to take doctors for granted. Without them, they will need help sewing up wounds, setting bones, performing CPR, and deciding which herbs and medications help with which ailments.

Food Storage. Canning, dehydrating, sealing, smoking skills will come into their own as people don’t know how to store food without a refrigerator.

Offer to preserve someone’s leftovers in exchange for help or supplies.

Gardening. Yet another skill that has become more and more rare. Learn to grow fresh herbs, fruits and vegetables, preferably indoors unless you have a secure backyard.

Gathering is great and the main thing here is knowing which naturally-occurring plants in your area have nutritional and/or medicinal value and which ones are useless and/or poisonous.

Gunsmithing will also be a vital skill If you’re facing a long-term disaster, people are going to need guns for hunting and self-protection.

It will help if you know how to repair guns and reload shells. But only help people you completely trust.

Hunting and Fishing. When food supplies get low and gardens fall short, people are going to have to hunt and fish.

If you can provide meat for your friends and family, they’ll have time to take care of other necessities.

Mechanic. Even if the Great Recession turns into Great Depression II, most people are still going to have jobs (remember, unemployment only got up to 25% in the 1930′s), which means they’ll need a way to get to work.

The problem for many people is that they won’t be able to afford to get their cars fixed.

If you learn how to work on cars, or any machine for that matter (lawnmowers, generators, etc.), you’ll have a particularly valuable skill.

Plumbing. People will still need their sinks and toilets, even more so if they’re washing clothes in the sink.

Learn to remove clogs, fix toilets and replace leaky pipes.

Psychology. A lot of people will crack up under the stress of seeing their entire world turned upside down, especially those who lose friends and/or loved ones.

It is important to know how to help these people and keep them from wallowing in despair.

Security. In a world full of criminals and looters, someone is going to need to stand guard when others are busy or sleeping.

This person will need to know how to use weapons and be practiced in hand-to-hand combat.

Soap/Candle Making. If the disaster goes on for long, soap and candles will be in high demand and a valuable trade item.

Teacher.

Even if the schools are closed, it’s still important that children spend part of their spare time reading and learning.

Remember, these are the children that will grow up and rebuild the world.

Water Purification. One of the most important skills of all! In the weeks after a major catastrophe, many people will die from dehydration or from drinking unsafe water.

It will help a lot if you learn all you can about cleaning and filtering water.

There are several other skills I thought about including in this list such as bee keeping, brewing, and electrical work, but I think the 20 listed above will probably be the most in-demand skills.

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Small Game Hunting Strategies

I have really concentrated on which techniques and tricks to employ to harvest grey squirrels at certain periods of the season. Give these tips a try in your area, you may find your hunting success and pleasure really intensifies!

EARLY SEASON (SEPTEMBER- EARLY OCTOBER)

As the squirrel season starts, I totally concentrate on the feeding pattern of the squirrel. My favourite technique is to SLOWLY stalk through the woods, LISTENING for falling debris from feeding squirrels in the trees. Beech trees are my first target, so a little preseason scouting to locate productive trees will pay off in dividends.

When I hear evidence of an overhead squirrel, I immediately look for movement of the game.

If all goes well, the sun will be right and the falling particles will be easily seen, giving away the squirrel’s location. From this point the stalk is on.

Don’t hurry your shot! If you move slowly, avoiding downed branches and their tell-tale “snap” the squirrel will be busy feeding and pay no attention to you. Don’t forget, the early season canopy of leaves will work in your favour as well..

If the action is slow, I resort to calling to the squirrels to liven up the forest.

MID SEASON (MID OCTOBER – EARLY NOVEMBER)

By now, the beech nuts have gone and I have to concentrate on another food source… corn! I set up for action now as opposed to my stalking technique.

Obviously, I am going to select hunting grounds that are proximate to cut corm fields. A typical set up is near a hedgerow between hardwoods and the corn itself. Hunters can attempt to do some quick scouting by looking for fallen corn husks or squirrels tracks in snow if any is present. From here it is a waiting game.

When a squirrel is shot, stay put because more squirrels will often be following in pursuit of the corn.

LATE SEASON (DECEMBER – FEBRUARY)

If you are still pursuing squirrels at this point, use the snow to your advantage. Look for abundant tracks near tree bases so you know where the busiest section of woods will be.

It is best to be hunting at day break, as squirrels are said to be most active from dawn to mid-day and spend the rest of the day in sleep.

SQUIRREL CALLING… DO THOSE THINGS REALLY WORK?

Well it is a known fact that squirrels spend most of their day in their dray after am feeding which can mean that the woods seem devoid of this little tasty creature so you need to call them, to expose them to be able to shoot them.

While squirrel calls are available commercially, I like to strike a coin against the butt plate of the gun, to imitate a bark and by striking two coins together, I can imitate feeding chatter.

Doctor’s practice, lawyers practice and so must you as hunting is a skill that must be practiced.

Wood Pigeon Shooting

As with squirrel hunting the most popular weapon used will be the air rifle and therefore we must maximise our chances of gaining some free tasty grub as failing to do so will lead to the land of groaning stomachs.

In my opinion there are only two ways to take wood pigeon with an air rifle (with the exception of the odd one sat on a fence or tree top) they are decoying and roost shooting.

Decoying

Woodpigeon decoying is the art of building a hide on a field where pigeons are feeding and using artificial or dead bird decoys to attract pigeons to within air rifle range (20 to 35 yards). The sport requires considerable reconnaissance and much patience and field craft to achieve results.

Hides may be built with camouflage nets, straw bales or natural cover. When using bales remember to ask the farmer’s permission to move them and always replace them after the shoot.

Natural hides are made with materials found on the farm and should be dismantled at the end of the shooting day.

Do not cut into hedgerows or otherwise damage the farmer’s property. The hide should be large enough (3ft. square) to accommodate the shooter, his dog and equipment, and have as level a floor as possible.

Roost shooting

For roost shooting Guns position themselves before dusk in woods where pigeons are known to roost during the winter and wait for the birds to return from their day’s feeding.

Mixed woods of conifers and hardwoods are the most popular and pigeon droppings under the trees will show the places to stand.

As it will be almost dark before the shoot ends fallen birds should be retrieved immediately.

Both of these methods will more that fill your game bag and provide many free tasty meals indeed.

Remember hunting is just that and to be successful you must employ all your senses and use nature to your advantage combined with your knowledge on your preys habits and your ability to be patient and when the time comes shoot straight.

Keeping Warm in the Wilderness

In the woods when you are around pine trees look for old stumps, fallen trees, or limbs that have fallen and rotted into a hard core.

Scrape into them to see if there is a hard rich golden colour. If you have hit the right stuff, it will smell like fresh pine sap, and will not appear in the least bit old or rotted, although it may be taken from the centre of a very rotten knot or stump.

This is the best fire starting material you will ever come across.

Split off a few splinters and set your fire. It will flare as if lighter fluid was dropped on it. It will burn for a good while, but will put off a very black sooty smoke. Carry a few small pieces in you survival gear for those rainy days.

Reflectors or as boiling rocks, be sure that the rocks are collected from a high and dry area. It may take a little more time to secure good rocks, but the effort is certainly worth it and could save you from a painful accident.

Rocks that are collected from a creek bed or in a damp place can hold moisture in them that forces itself out when the rocks are heated. This creates an explosion of incredible force. Not only is it dangerous, (i.e., loss of eye, puncture wound, etc.), but the loud pop sounds like a gunshot and may scare away any wild game you hope to harvest.

Nine out of ten accidents in the woods are self-inflicted, so be careful and use your head.

Dehydration is one of the leading causes of fatigue in the outdoorsl. If you feel thirsty you are probably dehydrated already. One of the most convenient ways I found to keep my intake of water up, was to purchase a hydration system.

You’ll be amazed at how much you do drink without noticing , and how much better you feel on the trail.

One extra tip is to pack a small bag of salted peanuts with you. The salt helps you to retain the water, the fat and protein will give you an energy boost .

THE FOLLOWING ARE POINTERS FOR PREVENTING HYPOTHERMIA

Which dulls the brain–the most important survival tool you have to help you survival:

Seek and create shelter from cold, wind, snow, and rain. If possible, retreat to timbered areas for shelter construction and fire.

Use natural shelters: the windless side of ridges, rock croppings, slope depressions, snow blocks, a snow hole at base of standing trees, dense stands of trees, or under downed trees or dry stone walls and hedges.

Improvise a windbreak or shelter from: stacked rocks or snow blocks, tree trunks, limbs, bark slabs and evergreen boughs, or dig a snow cave or snow trench with a cover.

Conserve, share, and create warmth.

Conserve body heat by putting on extra clothing. Replace damp undershirt and socks. Place damp wool clothing over dry wool clothing. Loosen boot laces to increase circulation.

Place feet with boots on in a pack. Use evergreen boughs to insulate body from ground. Place hands in armpits or crotch.

Share body heat. Sit or lie front to back or back to back. Warm the hands and feet of injured person or companions.

Create body heat.

Nibble high energy goods–candy, nuts, energy bar. Sip water kept warm with body heat. Use solid fuel hand warmer, igniting both ends of fuel stick, which is good for four hours of heat. Do isometric exercises to stir up body’s circulation system.

Build a fire.

Find dry wood–dead lower branches and bark from underside of trees. Look under downed trees and inside dead logs for dry kindling. Remember wet wood will burn as it dries in a strong fire.

Select a sheltered area, protected from strong winds, as the site for an emergency camp-fire. Under snow conditions build a fire base first, with large, four-inch diameter or larger pieces of wood (use your wire saw from your survival kit).

Put fire starter on the base, surround a fire starter with branches to hold kindling above the fire starter, then place a hatch work of kindling and slightly larger wood on the branches. Light fire starter and blow lightly to help its flame ignite kindling.

Add progressively larger wood to the flame area.

Prevent heat loss.

Remember the body loses heat by respiration, evaporation, conduction, radiation, and convection.

To prevent loss by respiration, cover the mouth and nose with loosely woven or knitted wool.

To reduce evaporation through excessive perspiration, wear clothes that breathe and are in layers.

To avoid loss by conduction, put a layer of cover between the body and a cold, wet surface. This insulation is particularly important if you’re already wet.

To prevent loss by radiation, keep the head, hands, and feet covered.

To prevent loss by convection, protect the body from the wind.

In stage one of hypothermia, the victim begins shivering, has poor coordination, slurs speech, and shows poor judgement.

By stage two, when the body temperature is below 95 degrees, muscular rigidity replaces shivering, and the victim becomes more irrational and needs warmth immediately from external sources and protection from further heat loss.

Know that the victim is the LAST to realize s/he’s in danger.

Trapping and Snaring for Food

Having spent well over 30 years studying survival skills I have had first-hand experience of the many processes that each learner will go through to finally achieve each element of natural wilderness survival.

As we all know food is the LAST thing you should worry about. Shelter, fire, water and signalling for help are far more important.

Remember the rule of 3’s… You can die from exposure to the elements in 3 hours,

You can die from lack of water in 3 days,

But it takes 3 WEEKS or more to die of starvation.

3 weeks is a long time, so plan for your essentials first. If you have your other bases covered, then you can start planning for food. Snaring and fishing are your best bets, as they allow for you to

“set and forget”, which means that you conserve energy.

All hunting should be done with as little energy expenditure as possible. Find a comfortable spot and wait for dinner to come to you. Rabbits, being very common worldwide, are a good wild game food.

They can typically be found grazing in fields and clearings where grasses and other low lying plants are found. Watch to see where they enter and exit these areas to provide the locations for snares.

Some people have been known to add impassable brush and wooden stakes along both sides of the path leading to the trap creating a funnel effect.

They can then drive rabbits or other small game in the direction of the trap and be relatively sure that the game will head straight into the snare.

The Rabbit Snare can be used for many types of small game depending on how and where you deploy it. It consists of a noose loosely draped over twigs, brush, or any low-lying points where you can drape it.

The noose is smooth cord that can easily slide through the small metal ring it is tied to (small key rings work very well for this).

The key to this snare is the bowed branch overhead, and the catch or trigger mechanism. A simple trigger consists of a very simple stake that is wedged at an angle very close to that of the line to the branch.

It is also sharpened and sits on a smooth rock so that any movement at all will free it.

A rabbit is not very smart, and assumes that the string across its path is simply grass, and typically does not slow down.

The looseness and breadth of the noose allows the game to proceed a couple feet before it tugs the branch and releases the catch.

You must remove all human scent and two good ways that I use are firstly to place the complete snare over a fire and let the smoke do its work (remember smoke is a natural smell) or secondly to place the complete snare into fresh cow dung don’t worry it is only digested grass.

Fishing

Survival fishing is quite different than normal fishing. Survival fishing is often done without you even being there. It’s more akin to trapping and snaring than it is to conventional fishing. There are several ways in which this can be accomplished.

Absentee Fishing

If you have fish-hooks and line (in a survival kit), then you’re way ahead of the game. You can bait a whole bunch of hooks, string them on a line across the waterway, and then walk away. This is “absentee fishing”.

Be careful that the line you string across the waterway is strong (10 – 15 lb line).

Tie it between a couple trees a couple feet above the water, and then you can either rely on the water flow to keep the bait near the surface, or simply put just enough line down to your hooks to not allow them to sink.

If the water is moving, your bait will be dancing to entice the fish. If there’s little or no movement, you can tie some leaf covered branches to the paracord to catch the wind, which also makes your bait look lively.

While waiting for a catch, you can keep yourself busy with important things like fire and shelter, and simply check your lines every few hours.

Fish Fences

If you don’t have any hooks and line, then I recommend a “fish fence”. A “fish fence” is just what it sounds like. It’s a fence that you make out of sticks that will corral the fish for you.

The fence should be dense in fact the denser the better, as long as water can flow through, and fish cannot! This is built on land in sections, and then inserted in a likely waterway by pushing the posts into the mud at the bottom.

There are several versions of this… it really depends on the waterway. If it’s a pond, and there’s no flowing water, then you’ll just make a corral in a shallow area with only one opening that funnels fish in.

Once they’re trapped in the small area, they can be speared or grabbed more easily.

If you’re working with a stream, then it’s important to determine the direction of flow. Observe whether fish are moving upstream, downstream, or both.

If the fish are moving in one direction then a basic fence placed diagonally across the stream will concentrate the fish in a small area making it easier to spear one.

If the fish are moving in both directions, you may want to make a “corral” that will catch in both directions as shown below.

If you have built your fencing in sections, it’s easier to try different configurations to see which works best for you.

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Drying Food to Preserve it

Drying is the oldest method of preserving food. The early American settlers dried foods such as corn, apple slices, currants, grapes, and meat.

Compared with other methods, drying is quite simple. In fact, you may already have most of the equipment on hand. Dried foods keep well because the moisture content is so low that spoilage organisms cannot grow.

Drying will never replace canning and freezing because these methods do a better job of retaining the taste, appearance, and nutritive value of fresh food.

But drying is an excellent way to preserve foods that can add variety to meals and provide delicious, nutritious snacks.

One of the biggest advantages of dried foods is that they take much less storage space than canned or frozen foods.

Recommended methods for canning and freezing have been determined by research and widespread experience.

Home drying, however, does not have firmly established procedures. Food can be dried several ways, for example, by the sun if the air is hot and dry enough, or in an oven or dryer if the climate is humid.

With the renewed interest in gardening and natural foods and because of the high cost of commercially dried products, drying foods at home is becoming popular again.

Drying is not difficult, but it does take time and a lot of attention. Although there are different drying methods, the guidelines remain the same.

Although solar drying is a popular and very inexpensive method, Illinois does not have a suitable climate for it.

Dependable solar dehydration of foods requires 3 to 5 consecutive days when the temperature is 95 degrees F. and the humidity is very low.

As an example the average relative humidity in central Illinois on days with 95 degrees F. temperatures is usually 86 per cent. Solar drying is thus not feasible.

Drying food in the oven of a kitchen range, on the other hand, can be very expensive. In an electric oven, drying food has been found to be nine to twelve times as costly as canning it.

Food dehydrators are less expensive to operate but are only useful for a few months of the year.

A convection oven can be the most economical investment if the proper model is chosen. A convection oven that has a controllable temperature starting at 120 degrees F. and a continuous operation feature rather than a timer-controlled one will function quite well as a dehydrator during the gardening months.

For the rest of the year it can be used as a tabletop oven.

For a good-quality product, vegetables and fruits must be prepared for drying as soon as possible after harvesting. They should be blanched, cooled, and laid out to dry without delay.

Foods should be dried rapidly, but not so fast that the outside becomes hard before the moisture inside has a chance to evaporate.

Drying must not be interrupted. Once you start drying the food, don’t let it cool down in order to start drying again later.

Mold and other spoilage organisms can grow on partly dried food.

During the first part of the drying process, the air temperature can be relatively high, that is, 150 degrees to 160 degrees F. (65 degrees to 70 degrees C.), so that moisture can evaporate quickly from the food.

Because food loses heat during rapid evaporation, the air temperature can be high without increasing the temperature of the food.

But as soon as surface moisture is lost (the outside begins to feel dry) and the rate of evaporation slows down, the food warms up.

The air temperature must then be reduced to about 140 degrees F. (60 degrees C.).

Toward the end of the drying process the food can scorch easily, so you must watch it carefully. Each fruit and vegetable has a critical temperature above which a scorched taste develops.

The temperature should be high enough to evaporate moisture from the food, but not high enough to cook the food.

Carefully follow directions for regulating temperatures.

Rapid dehydration is desirable. The higher the temperature and the lower the humidity, the more rapid the rate of dehydration will be.

Humid air slows down evaporation. Keep this in mind if you plan to dry food on hot, muggy summer days.

If drying takes place too fast, however, “case hardening” will occur. This means that the cells on the outside of the pieces of food give up moisture faster than the cells on the inside.

The surface becomes hard, preventing the escape of moisture from the inside.

Moisture in the food escapes by evaporating into the air. Trapped air soon takes on as much moisture as it can hold, and then drying can no longer take place.

this reason, be sure the ventilation around your oven or in your food dryer is adequate.

Drying the food evenly takes a little extra effort and attention. Stirring the pieces of food frequently and shifting the racks in the oven or dryer are essential because heat is not the same in all parts of the dryer.

For the best results, spread thin layers of uniformly-sized pieces of food on the drying racks.

Dried fruits are a good source of energy because they contain concentrated fruit sugars. Fruits also contain a rather large amount of vitamins and minerals.

The drying process, however, destroys some of the vitamins, especially A and C. Exposing fruit to sulfur before drying helps retain vitamins A and C. Sulfur destroys thiamine, one of the B vitamins, but fruit is not an important source of thiamine anyway. Many dried fruits are rich in riboflavin and iron.

Vegetables are a good source of minerals and the B vitamins thiamine, riboflavin, and niacin. Both fruits and vegetables provide useful amounts of the fiber (bulk) we need.

Save the water used for soaking or cooking dried foods because this nutrient-rich water can be used in recipes to make soups, sauces, and gravy.

Many kinds of fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, meat, and fish can be dried. If you have never tried drying food before, though, it’s a good idea to experiment first by drying a small quantity in the oven.

This way you can see if you like the taste and texture of dried food. At the same time, you can become familiar with the drying process.

Fruits are easier to dry than vegetables because moisture evaporates wore easily, and not as much moisture must be removed for the product to keep.

Ripe apples, berries, cherries, peaches, apricots, and pears are practical to dry.

Vegetables that are also practical to dry include peas, corn, peppers, zucchini, okra, onions, and green beans.

Produce from the supermarket is usually more expensive and not as fresh as it should be for drying.

It is a waste of time and energy to dry vegetables such as carrots that can be kept for several months in a cool, dry basement or cellar.

Fresh herbs of all types are suitable for drying. The parts of the plant to dry vary, but leaves, seeds, or blossoms usually give the best results.

Lean meats such as beef, lamb, and venison can be dried for jerky.

Fish also is excellent when dried. Certain foods are not suitable for drying because of their high moisture content.

Lettuce, melons, and cucumbers are a few foods that do not dry well.

Don’t be surprised to find a variety of suggestions for drying methods, temperatures, and lengths of time.

The drying process is simply not as precise as canning and freezing because it involves so many different factors.

You may need to use a trial-and-error approach to find what suits you best. Whatever method you use, be sure to remove enough moisture from the final product so that spoilage organisms cannot grow.

When you dry foods, remember the following:

Cleanliness and sanitation are essential.

The flavour of dried fruits and vegetables will be somewhat different from that of their fresh, canned, or frozen counterparts.

One of the advantages of drying foods rather than canning or freezing them is that you can get by with almost no special equipment.

A kitchen oven, drying trays or racks, and storage containers are the only basic equipment needed. If you want to dry large quantities of food, you may decide to buy or make a food dryer, but it is not essential.

For sun drying you need only racks and storage containers.

Although the following equipment is not absolutely necessary, it will help you make a more uniformly good product:

a food scale to weigh food before and after drying an electric fan to circulate the air

a thermometer to check the oven temperature

a blancher for vegetables

a sulfur box for fruit

Wood slats or stainless steel screen mesh are the best materials to use for the racks. Cake racks or a wooden frame covered with cheesecloth or other loosely-woven cloth can also be used for drying racks.

Do not use solid metal trays or cookie sheets to dry food because air must circulate all around the food so that drying can take place from the bottom and the top at the same time.

Pieces of meat for jerky can be placed directly on the metal racks in the oven if the pieces are large enough not to fall through the spaces in the racks.

Do not use racks made of galvanized screen, aluminum, copper, fiberglass, or vinyl. Galvanized screen contains zinc and cadmium.

These metals cause an acid reaction that forms harmful compounds and darkens the food. Aluminum becomes discolored and causes an off-flavor in sulfured fruit.

Copper materials destroy vitamin C. Fiberglass may leave dangerous splinters in the food, and vinyl melts at temperatures used for drying.

Oven drying is the simplest way to dry food because you need almost no special equipment. It is also faster than sun drying or using a food dryer.

But oven drying can be used only on a small scale. An ordinary kitchen oven can hold only 4 to 6 pounds of food at one time.

Set the oven on the lowest possible setting and preheat to 140 degrees F. (60 C.).

Do not use the broiler unit of an electric oven because the food on the top tray will dry too quickly’ Remove the unit if it has no separate control.

Some gas ovens have a pilot right, which may keep the oven warm enough to dry the food.

It is important to keep the oven temperature at 140 to 160 F. (60 to 70 C.). So put an oven thermometer on the top tray about half way back where you can see it easily.

Check the temperature about every half hour.

Arrange 1 to 2 pounds of prepared food in a single layer on each tray. Put one tray on each oven rack. Allow 1-1/2 inches of space on the sides, front, and back of the trays so that air can circulate all around them in the oven.

To stack more trays in the oven, use blocks of wood in the comers of the racks to hold the trays at least I inches apart. Dry no more than four trays of food at a time.

A lighter load dries faster than a full load.

Keep the oven door open slightly during drying. A rolled newspaper, a block of wood, or a hot pad will keep the door ajar so that moist air can escape while the heat stays in the oven.

Four to six inches for electric ovens or 1 to 2 inches for gas ovens is usually enough space for ventilation, but use a thermometer to check the oven temperature to make sure it stays at 140 F.

An electric fan placed in front of the oven door helps to keep the air circulating.

Shifting the trays often is important for even drying because the temperature is not the same everywhere in the oven.

Rotate the trays from top to bottom and from front to back every half hour. It helps to number the trays so you can keep track of the order in which you rotate them.

Stirring fruit or vegetables every half hour or so also helps the food to dry evenly. jerky needs to be turned over occasionally to keep it from sticking to the trays.

Wilderness121’s 10% discount

The new supplier of Purificup to the UK is Wilderness121 and they really mean business, having spoken to the director Rob Williams he has agreed to offer you dear listener a 10% discount just by putting the letters UKPRN into the code box it is that simple.

Now pop along to www.wilderness121.co.uk and check out their great range of survival related products.

Common Prepping Mistakes

With the abundance of bad info out there, it’s easy for new preppers to make a lot of mistakes.

I, myself, when I was a new prepper made many mistakes and I’m sure I’ll make more, but that’s part of the learning process.

To help you speed up this process, here are some common prepping mistakes you’ll want to avoid:

Not having a survival library. Books are less common these days because we do so much reading on the Internet and Kindles. But if the power goes out, having a good collection of survival books could save your life.

They’ll give you something to read when you’re bored, and will have important instructions on things like purifying water, building fires, and medical care.

While you want to learn as much of this info as you can ahead of time, no one can know everything, and there are bound to be times when a survival library will come in handy.

Focusing on supplies instead of skills. Of course, just because you have all the best books on survival doesn’t mean you shouldn’t bother to learn survival skills. It’s possible your books will be destroyed or you won’t be able to get to them.

The same rule applies to your survival food and gear. What if you’re at work when your home is destroyed by an explosion, earthquake or some other disastrous event?

Would you still have the skills to survive, or are you completely dependent on your food and gear?

Not having enough water preps. I cannot overemphasize the importance of water.

There are many survivalists who have six months of food and only two weeks of water on hand.

Considering that you can survive without food about ten times as long as you can survive without water, you’d be better off with two weeks of food and six months of water.

Don’t do that either by the way, but at least make sure your water will last as long as your food. If you don’t have enough room for that much, there are many ways to collect and purify water.

Not having enough variety in food supplies. Too many new preppers buy nothing but rice, beans, flour, salt and sugar. If that’s all you have to eat after a disaster, you’re going to be miserable.

Your body will have trouble adjusting to the new bare-bones diet and you’ll suffer from food fatigue, where your survival food won’t be appetizing even when you’re very hungry.

Make sure you buy the ingredients for a variety of possible meals so you’ll feel satisfied every time you eat.

This leads to my next point…

Not eating what you store. This was the first mistake I made when I started stocking up on food. I bought all kinds of food, sealed it up, put it in the cupboard, and forgot about it.

Inevitably, some of my food went bad and I had to throw it out.

It’s important you store what you eat and eat what you store.

I’m a mate of rotate, in other words rotate your food and water supplies

If you’re not sure how to cook meals from the basic ingredients, I’d recommend getting some cookbooks and a guide like Emergency Food Storage & Survival Handbook 10 Common Prepping Mistakes which has a lot of great recipes.

Not having enough vitamins. Personally, I think everyone should be taking multivitamins since most modern diets don’t provide the nutrition we need, but this will be even more important in a survival situation.

The stress of having your life turned upside down, constant threats to you and your family, and manual labour will take a lot of energy and tax your immune system. Vitamins will help keep you strong and healthy, especially Vitamin C.

While the last few points have been about food, don’t forget all your other survival needs. When a lot of people think of prepping, the first things they think about are food and water and they proceed to stock up on them while neglecting healthy and beauty supplies, first aid kids, bug out bags, cooking implements, clothes, weapons and other important items.

While food should be your first priority, don’t forget your other priorities.

Relying only on an arsenal. At the other end the spectrum, there are some preppers who focus all their attention on guns and ammo.

The reasoning is that not only will they be able to protect themselves, they’ll be able to hunt their food and trade ammo for other supplies.

This is unrealistic, especially if you’re in or near a city. The little bit of wildlife in your area will be picked clean by others, and most people won’t be interested in your ammo as they, like you, will be looking to trade for food and other vital supplies.

Sure, have some weapons for self-defence, but don’t go overboard.

As much as we all love our pets, for some reason it’s easy to forget that they need preps, too.

Animals require more than just food and water.

Planning on bugging out. Although having a bug out bag and a vehicle survival kit is important, unless you have advance warning of a disaster it will be very difficult to get from your home to your bug out location.

The streets will be congested, roads and entire areas could be inaccessible, and fuel could become unavailable.

That’s why I think it’s so important to be ready to shelter in place.

Ken at MidiMax.co.uk is offering 10% off any product by using the code Midi10 so check out www.midimax.co.uk

Attracting Rescuer’s Attention

I think that the time to prepare to be rescued is before you ever need to signal for help. Leave a trip itinerary with a trustworthy and reliable friend.

List the times you expect to be at certain points along the way. Include your travel route and note your arrival time.

Of course your plans can change; and if yours do, notify your friend as it occurs. Make notes in your itinerary that show contingency plans.

Pre select meeting places should your party become separated. Rescue workers will more easily locate you if you become lost. It’s also helpful to include entries about the physical condition of the group members, medicines, tents, clothes, water and contact information for immediate family and physicians.

To signal for help you can use a variety of items such as Mobile phones, radio beacons, colourful cloth, fires, flashlights, smoke, whistles or mirrors.

The ability to calm yourself will enable you to creatively consider ways to alert rescuers to your location. As will knowing how to  accurately assess your options can save your life.

If you should lose your way, your position should be marked right away. In order to easily identify your position, create a pile of rocks, brush, or break some twigs.

Your home base is now established. Should attempts to find your way out fail, home base is where you will return. Additionally, this is the spot where you’ll wait for rescuers to find you.

Leave a note at this location if you decide to move from it. Detail your intentions and the direction of your travel. As you move along your path, mark your way with piles of rocks, broken sticks or some other sign at even intervals. These markings will help search teams determine your location.

Battery operated signalling devices are of great value. However, over-dependence on them is unwise.

They include individual Location Beacons (PLBs), satellite telephones, avalanche rescue beacons and other personal communication technology can be useful. Other emergency location devices are ELTs (Emergency Locator Transmitters), used by pilots, and EPIRBs (Emergency Position-Indicating Radio Beacons) used by sailors.

Don’t allow the convenience of modern technology to be a temptation to take unnecessary risks. Mobile phones and GPS units could become little more than body location devices if you have the attitude that help is only a button’s press away.

Keep in mind that battery-operated equipment can fail, even under ideal conditions. Rugged outdoors with uneven, hilly terrain can cause poor reception or none at all.

Equipment wear, damage, weak batteries and user incapacitation could make it impossible to utilize these tools.

It is wise to carry additional survival supplies and equipment and lean heavily upon acquired skills and sound judgment for survival. Know realistically what  your personal limits are and be familiar with the limits of your equipment in different conditions.

Although flares are easy to spot, they don’t last long. These shouldn’t be wasted. Be aware that they aren’t easily seen from a distance during the day. Distance signalling with flares is only really effective at night.

Whistles are little items that are not heavy to carry and are simple to use. Emergency whistles can alert others to your presence. The sound of a whistle can tell a human ear the direction from which it originates.

Conversely, the sound of a human voice calling out can be muted and dispelled by leafy cover.

The exertion of extended bouts of yelling or calling can leave you weak and winded. Instead, whistles can be used for an extended time by those who are weak or injured.

The worldwide signal for distress is a grouping of three bursts of sound. This is true whether you are using a whistle or shots from a firearm.

A grouping of two bursts of sound signals that all is well. The blast of an emergency whistle can be heard as much as five miles away.

In city settings, a personal whistle is valuable. It enables the wearer to attract help by alerting others of dangerous conditions. A signaling whistle can be worn on a string about the neck of a child.

It isn’t a good idea to use metal whistles in an emergency kit. When wet, lips can adhere to cold metal. Its a good idea to buy plastic whistles that are flat if you wear one or carry it in a pocket or pouch.

Emergency signal mirrors will make you visible to searchers, but this is dependent upon your ability to use them effectively. A well-aimed signal mirror cannot be ignored.

Your position will be revealed to those 10+ miles away, even in a heavily forested area or in hilly terrain.

Mirrors produced for the purpose of signalling are often resistant to breakage, small, lightweight and produced with an eyelet hole for attaching it by a strap to the neck or waist. Another hole is located in the centre of the glass for use in aiming the reflected beam of light.

This hole is used by looking through it to direct the light towards specific locations along the ground or in the sky. When looking through the viewing hole, the user can determine the point of impact of the reflected beam and adjust it to catch the attention of emergency personnel.

Emergency mirrors are not required to use this method. Mirrors from a car, compass mirrors, a polished music CD, a makeup mirror, foil wrappers, shiny cans or any other polished flat metal can be used in this manner.

Stick aiming and the hand technique are two methods that will allow you to aim reflected sunlight.

The hand technique requires that you extend your hand with two fingers raised in a “V” formation. Look between the two digits and move your hand so that your target (possibly an aircraft) is visible in its centre. Adjust the mirror’s surface so that the reflected light moves between your fingers (the ones forming the “V”) also. Your reflected light will make contact with your target.

The stick method uses a twig or limb that is equal to the height of your chest or head. Your position should be such that the top of the stick and your mirror are in line with the target. By positioning the mirror so that the light touches the top of the stick (while still in line with the target) you can alert rescuers.

Using your signal mirror, cast reflected light over the horizon regularly. While you may not see search teams, they might catch sight of your signal. Once you are sure you have been seen, do not continue to signal. A signal mirror’s flash can be blinding.

To become proficient with a signal mirror, practice the skill before you need it in an emergency situation.

There are many signs that can signal a need for help. Flat horizontal surfaces as well as vertical surfaces are good choices for these displays. Three sides of a triangle will signal searchers of your need for rescue and your location.

Remember, three is a universal signal for distress. Write the word “HELP” in large uppercase letters. The letter “V” signals that immediate relief is needed. SOS in large, capital letters says that assistance is required. A large “X” signifies a need for emergency medical aid.

These symbols can be stamped out with your feet or formed using piles of rocks, branches, brush, or whatever materials you have on hand. If you are in a flat or sandy area, you may be able to scratch the symbol into the dirt.

The corners of a triangle can be made more visible by setting fires or flares at each angled point.

A vehicle should be made easier to spot by air search teams by clearing away brush, use fabric as a flag, or  anything else you have on hand Oil and fuel can be used to start signal fires which can be fed with other material from the vehicle – anything that produces smoke.

Use your time to place several distress signs around your area, making your position more prominent.

When you’ve spotted rescue workers, wave to attract their attention. Use the universal signal for distress which is extending and waving both arms while crossing your hands over your head.

A one-armed wave signals that all is well. Don’t interchange these.

When lost ask yourself if a quick rescue is likely.

If the answer to this is yes, and it would take a small amount of expended energy to do so, employing the use of signs and signals to alert rescuers of your location should become a priority.

Fish Antibiotics for Humans and why not?

I have for many years advocated the use of animal antibiotics for humans at any time but especially when SHTF.

There seems to be a myth that they are not safe or that they would not even work. Well I will let you into a secret, they are all made by the same companies in the same factories and even have the very same ingredients.

I know many preppers who either have a supply of antibiotics or are in the process of stocking up, I mean what are you going to do when the doctors, chemists, and hospitals cease to function?

So are Fish Antibiotics for Humans Safe?

So as I have said before on this show and in many other places fish antibiotics are a very popular subject within prepping and survival circles today. I think that one reason for this is that to actually get antibiotics from your doctor right now is not easy at all, and I very much doubt that your doctor would ever let you have enough to stock up on, so many are attempting to source an alternative that:

Is effective for curing infections in humans

Is readily available to ordinary people

Is available in larger quantities than the single doses that are normally prescribed

However I have to say from the start that if you decide to go down this route you should go onto the internet for example and research the subject and even seek medical advice from a doctor. I must caution you against taking my advice as read,, I am not a doctor and I have reached my conclusions as a result of my own research and this is my opinion, all I am suggesting is that you take the same road.

But are fish antibiotics safe for us to use?

Well firstly we must consider what ingredients are in fish antibiotics and what are in Human antibiotics and what does are available and how that may affect the does we should take.

As many of you know I have had serious heart problems and to some degree I still have these problems today. This has meant that in the past I am susceptible to chest infections having had three since Christmas this year, I therefore am well aware of antibiotics, their use and dosage.

So it did not surprise me at all that the very same antibiotics that I had been prescribed at one time or another are the very same one used on fish.

Fish Antibiotic Name

Fish Antibiotic Ingredients and Dosage

Human Antibiotic Ingredients and Dosage

Fish Mox Forte

Amoxicillin
500mg

Amoxicillin
500mg 3x per day

Fish Flex Forte

Cephalexin
500mg

Cephalexin
250-500mg every 6 hrs

Fish Zole Forte

Metronidazole
500mg

Metronidazole
500-750mg 3x per day

Fish Flox Forte

Ciprofloxacin
500mg

Ciprofloxacin
500mg every 12 hrs

Fish Pen Forte

Penicillin
500mg

Penicillin
500mg every 6 hrs

Fish Cillin

Ampicillin
250mg

Ampicillin
500mg every 6 hrs

I have to say that finding this out shocked me for many reasons least of all how cheap they were in comparison to the very same antibiotic being sold to humans.

So you can see that these readily available antibiotics appear to be both the same ingredient and in many cases the same dosage as those offered to humans from pharmacies.

What else do we need to research when considering Fish Antibiotics for Humans?

I think the main question that come to me is, what else is in the tablet? As let’s be honest anyone buying and taking one of these products wants to know if it also includes a fish health supplement that has not been used by humans.

So you must make sure before you buy that the only ingredient in the capsules is the antibiotic that you want such as:

  1. Amoxicillin

  2. Cephalexin

  3. Metronidazole

  4. Ciprofloxacin

  5. Penicillin

  6. Ampicillin

You must also make sure that the dosages are appropriate to what is recommended by a doctor or a well-respected medical source.

As with all preps you must store antibiotics properly – they should be kept in a cool, dark place with the original seal intact until needed. Keep an eye on the usage date.

Warning: consider any allergies – A percentage of the population is allergic to Penicillin and its derivative medicines. Be aware of all medical allergies for anyone you are making a Bug out Plan for.

The rise of antibiotic resistant bacteria in modern society is a major threat to modern medicine, in fact after major open heart surgery in 2003 I caught one of those super-bugs and my consultant told me way back then that he doubted that in 10 to 15 years’ time that he would be able to treat the same infection. .

The frequent use of antibiotics in both humans and animals has accelerated this trend.   Best practice is to use these drugs only when necessary.

Where can you buy fish antibiotics, well firstly you do not need a prescription at all, so your local pet shop has them and of course do not forget the internet.

1. Ebay  – Fish Antibiotics

2. Amazon.com

3. Fishmoxfishflex.com

4. http://www.thomaslabs.com/topic/22-fish-antibiotic-information.aspx

Stockpiling  medication for a future disaster or a collapse of society is straightforward when it comes to non-prescription medications such as ibuprofen and other common pain killers. They are cheap to buy and readily available.

However, it is not so simple to acquire and stockpile prescription medications such as common antibiotics which are required to treat infections.

To have a stockpile of antibiotics in a long-term survival situation or a collapse of society would be useful if not vital.

Infection will be a big problem in these kinds of situation; for example – take away our power, water/sanitation and food supplies; replace them with – fires/camp stoves, survival food and untreated water.

On top of this, give us knives, axes and guns (which we are largely unaccustomed to using) to chop wood, hunt and defend ourselves and it is easy to see the need to have access to antibiotics.

Now thanks to the Managing Director Paul listeners visiting Field Leisure – The Bushcraft & Wilderness Store at http://www.fieldleisure.co.uk/ can get 10% OFF by entering the code UKPRN at the checkout now Paul guarantees next day delivery all over the UK and fast European and US delivery and that is reassuring and refreshing too.

Preppers are we clever or not?

What do we really want from a Prepper website and what do we really NEED from a Prepper website?

The answer can be very different.

Here a few of important points that we must consider, however it would take a book just to cover all of the concerns people have.

I have looked at loads of Prepper Websites and I am wondering how many people will actually survive SHTF.

A lot of these prepper websites are written by keyboard warriors who read books or watch a film and think that this makes them an authority on survival, sadly most of their readers will fail at a time when failure is not an option.

While there are some great sites “out there” written by people who live the life they preach about, there are many more “money making” web sites offering their weekly “prepper fix” often without giving out any real quality information.

So what questions should you be asking in order to learn and survive?

This is dangerous to your long term health and that of your family and group. Think about this.

Your life and the life of every member of your family and group will depend upon what you “actually” know about “real time” survival in the “real world”. This will not include cracking another beer and laying back on your couch with the remote.

Most of the sites talk about people going off and either living alone or just with their immediate family and most of these people will be some of the first to be killed or worse by roaming armed thugs.

The reason is because they will only have 1 primary defender, the father.

Think about this the reason that wolves are so successful is because they work as a team.

Why?

One of the first things you learn is to work as a “TEAM”. There is no “I” in team as we are told. I wonder how many of these writers have walked the walk I am talking about actually going out into the woods and setting up camp, building shelter, lighting a fire, finding and making safe water, hunting, etc. perhaps not too many.

How many of these writers have starved for days at a time because the food they were hunting was scarce and it was too far to go to the “shop”?

You have to remember that I am not talking about social outcasts here or disenfranchised mental patients, I am talking about someone who genuinely loves to live off the land (or did when they were younger

Most people think that they will continue to live the same life after SHTF as they did before the Event, just in a shipping container or bunker for a few weeks and then back home to their house or apartment, minus a few neighbours.

There are of course some people you do not need in your group like people on medications like anti-depressants or stronger medication, followed by people who drink alcohol and smoke (anything) will be the worst affected and the most dangerous.

Can you image living in a survival shelter with 1 or 2 people who smoke a pack or 2 a day?

If you think that the word “idiot” is too harsh, what would you call a driver who is doing 50 miles an hour and not looking at the road for up to 20 seconds + at a time?

Do you want to share your bunker and trust your kids with someone on strong prescription meds who can no longer get them?

Think about “that” for a moment.

LEARN FROM THE PAST

How many of you have decided where you will go and how you will survive long term at your selected retreat location?

How many of you have a Plan B, C, D, E and F locations?

How many of you know whether the soil in these chosen retreat locations is Alkaline or Acidic?

How many of you have purchased seeds of plants which like to grow in the Alkaline or Acidic soils at your selected retreat locations?

How many of you know what plants and animals live best in these locations and which local insects and creatures are bad for your health? (Same with your B,C,D,E & F sites)

How many of you have decided on a location and then started studying and learning from the native people who live in that area?

For those of you who own land, how many of you have organically boosted your soils for longer term growing viability by ploughing in charcoal and organic matter?

How many are taking “noisy” Sheep, Goats, Chickens, Cows and Pigs when you should be taking “Silent” Ducks and Rabbits? (Geese are not included)

Freshwater Fish and Chips

The carp has always been pretty safe swimming along British water ways. It is not considered very tasty, and laws prevent coarse fishermen killing more than two a day.

But for the Eastern European angler, who regards the fish as a delicacy, it is a prized catch. And immigrants are catching them illegally – on a massive scale.

Unused to British fishing customs, they see no sense in throwing them back in the water when they can be taken home and eaten instead.

And they are catching so many that the Environment Agency has now set up anti-poaching patrols to give the fish some much-needed protection.

Under current laws, anglers are allowed to kill just two freshwater coarse fish a day using a rod and line, and need a fishing licence to do so.

Using large nets or fixed-rod lines to catch large numbers of fish is illegal and can result in fines of up to £2,500.

But their use has rocketed since large numbers of immigrants arrived from Poland and other Eastern European countries.

Groups of men have been seen spotted stretching nets across canals, walking along the bank and taking fish from entire stretches of water.

Angling Times editor Richard Lee said yesterday: “[The problem] has arisen because a lot of eastern Europeans do not fish for pleasure, but for the table.”

There is a lot of frustration because it seems little can be done and there is a fear people will take things into their own hands.

If these people were made aware of the rules most would toe the line. It is a matter of education.

I know personally that it is a problem which is spreading all over the country since the influx of east European migrants. I mean back home if they want to eat fish they simply go and catch it.

Over here they find plenty of canals and ponds but the rules are different and netting is illegal they are catching fish to eat because it is cheap and it is what they are used to doing back home.

As a coarse fisherman more than a sea fisherman (due to the distance to the sea) I cannot disagree with the Eastern European mentality, of course I disagree with using nets and spear guns etc. but on single hook rod and line fishing on rivers and not commercial waters why not, after all fish is fish, is it not?

I recently caught some Perch which when pan fried tasted great and you could not get any fresher.

I despair as I walk past the supermarket fish offerings, the variety is fantastic there are even some tropical fish for sale all covered in ice and looking very good.

But my friends the smell gives it all away, this fish is not fresh at all, it is actually decaying before your very eyes.

If you have ever caught a fish you will know that it does not smell of fish at all, it really does not have a smell, well in the case of sea fish there is a fresh sea whiff but it does not smell of fish at all.

What would you rather eat decaying supermarket fish or fresh caught fish eaten within hours of catching it? I think you will agree that the answer is quite simple.

If you have never eaten freshwater fish then do so they taste great especially the predator of perch, pike, zander and trout, yes the trout and salmon are predators, in fact being honest most fish are.

Carp and other bottom feeders can taste very muddy unless purged in running fresh water for at least five days anyway.

Go on buy an EA rod licence and try some fresh fish for dinner.

Nigel at www.hunters-knives.co.uk has offered you dear listener 10% on all his products simply by using the code PREPPER

The Lifestraw GO Review

A water filter bottle is a water filter bottle right? Well NO, not really as the Lifestraw GO is very different to the others out there. For one it looks cool, modern and well designed.

Secondly it is see through and that give a drama to it when in use as the user can see the transformation from dirty coloured water to clean safe clear water pouring from its spout.

Ok, it looks great but does it actually do what it was designed to do? here are the technical facts:

The Lifestraw GO will filter 1,000 liters/264 gallons to 0.2 microns and it will remove 99.9999% of bacteria (E.coli etc.) as well as 99.9% protozoa (Giardia, Cryptosporidium, etc.)

It weighs only 225 grams (empty of course) and holds 670 ml

It contains no chemicals or batteries

LifeStraw® Go incorporates the award-winning LifeStraw® technology into a durable water bottle. Simply scoop water from a river or pond, screw the lid on, and sip clean water through the mouthpiece.

The BPA-free water bottle has a built-in LifeStraw® and will filter up to 1,000 liters of contaminated water to the highest standards.

The Go bottle has the same specifications as the original LifeStraw® and can provide you with instant clean water no matter where you are.

Perfect for outdoor, sport, hiking and traveling, prepping and survival or as your daily hydration partner.

The LifeStraw® technology contains a specially designed hollow fiber ultrafiltration technology, most commonly found in industrial water treatment plants that clean a city’s water supply.

The inside of the LifeStraw® consists of a large number of hollow fibers that resemble angel hair spaghetti, but much thinner. Each fiber has pores in its walls with a diameter of 0.2 microns or five hundred times smaller than the diameter of a human hair.

When water is forced through the hollow fibers, only clean water can fit through these pores, blocking bacteria, parasites, and dirt from reaching the user.

This purely physical method of filtration does not contain any chemicals.
The LifeStraw® technology has been independently tested and certified to meet EU directive 10/2011 and EU directive 1935/2004 regulatory standards.

The only way to test any filteration system is to use it, so I had read all the tech. stuff and having used the lifestraw myself before I headed for as many suspect water sources as I could find.

First was the River Skell at the end of my street, there are loads of wild fowl and other wildlife as well as dogs swimming and kids playing in it. I filled the Lifestraw GO and had a drink, it was as I thought clear, clean, cold and refreshing and tasted of nothing, it was just water.

Next it was the Ripon canal, which not only has the wildlife etc. but pollution from the boats that use it.

Having been told not to drink the water by two passing boaters who saw me filling my Lifestraw GO, there was utter amazement as the watched me having a drink, I offered them a sip and one of them Bill, tried it and was pleasantly surprised he said but his wife would not try any.

There was a large puddle on the road as it had rained earlier and I sampled that too with the very same result.

I am convinced that the Lifestraw GO is a life-saver, and with its carabina clip it is easily carried for when needed.

You can order yours here http://waternlife.com/lifestraw-go-bottle.html

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